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Forum > Patterns and Notions > How to cut pattern pieces when fabric has no Selvage? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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How to cut pattern pieces when fabric has no Selvage?
RAMM
RAMM
Member since 8/18/07
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Date: 10/27/13 4:37 PM

Hello,

I have a pattern for a basic long sleeves top. I will be ECO Bamboo Jersey fabric. However my fabric does not have selvage so I can't open the fabric. I guess this is how the fabric is manufactured and rolled on the bolt. The fabric just has a cut edge at the top and a cut edge at the bottom. Therefore I can't open it a fold it like the pattern instructions require (I have to cut the front and back pieces on the folds which means the fabric selvages would meet in the center of the fabric).

Does anyone have any advice and/or recommendations on what I can do?

Is it possible to cut out the pattern pieces when there is no selvage?

Thanks in advance for your help.

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to RAMM <<


Date: 10/27/13 4:57 PM

I'm sure it did have selvage edge of some kind, once in the factory when they made it, but since it's knit, it might have looked more like a cut off and stiffly painted edge or something like that. But to not even have one now, does mean that someone has had to have taken/cut that edge off it, on purpose, apparently before you got it somehow. Did you buy it on line, on a flat fold table in a store, or in person on the bolt? My guess is it was not in person, folded on a bolt in a store at all though.

Does not really matter though, except I think it's kind of weird that they did that even. Maybe you should measure it, cross wise, to make sure it's still even the width it's supposed to be, which if it's Rayon knit, probably something close to 54 to 60' wide?

But you don't need the real selvage edge on there just to make something of it at all. You might need to be able to tell how to fold it lengthwise though. So you just look for the length of the built in ribs and pearls of the knit, even though they are pretty small, and fold it on one of those to get a true length wise fold, like that instead.

-- Edited on 10/27/13 4:59 PM --

Elona
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In reply to RAMM <<
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Date: 10/27/13 4:58 PM

Here are good directions for finding the 'straight' or lengthwise grain of the knit. It involves a good eye and good light.

and here is a discussion of how to cut and open a tubular knit (which is probably what you have) so you can fold and rearrange a single layer of fabric.


-- Edited on 10/27/13 5:00 PM --

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to RAMM <<
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Date: 10/27/13 7:45 PM

So you are saying the fabric is a tube or circle? This is how knits are made. Sometimes they are cut open other times, especially for rib knits, they are sold in the tube form.

Keep in mind that with knits you so not want to use the fold in the fabric as bought as the fold you lay your pattern on. Often the fold (as sold) is a permanent line and will not wash or iron out.

With knits you want the greatest degree of stretch going around your body.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to RAMM <<


Date: 10/28/13 12:06 PM

This sounds like a tubular knit. This overview provides a lot of good information and addresses tubular knit on page 4.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

RAMM
RAMM
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Date: 10/28/13 7:29 PM

Thank you all so very much. I greatly appreciate you answering my questions.

I will use your advice.

Thanks again.

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