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Message Board > Fitting Woes > fitting new look top 6808 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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fitting new look top 6808
mare1234
mare1234
Member since 10/3/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 10/27/13 5:18 PM

Hello,

I am a beginner moving into making fitted tops for myself and would love some tips on this muslin. The top is New Look 6808. I chose it because it had bust darts and vertical darts, and it is a cute top! I cut a size 12 using my upper chest measurement, since I am a c-d cup.

The muslin was too long at first, so I took up 2/3" above the bust, so that the darts would better meet my bustline, and 1.5" at the waist. I already moved the shoulder seam forward by adding 1/4" inch to the back at the shoulder seam. These moves seemed to help slightly with the pool of fabric in the back, but there is still so much fabric. I also added 2 inches of room around the bottom to accommodate my full rear.

I have extra fabric above my bust, what causes it and how do I get rid of it? It also seems to want to ride up. Some of my ready to wear tops tend to ride up above the bust, with the neckline sometimes hitting me at an annoying point above my clavicle. The bust part of the garment seems to fit fine, although it looks like it is big in the pictures.

Also see the tons of extra fabric in the back, from below the shoulders to the waist. Is it simply a matter of pinching the darts more? Or, should I take excess from the side seams only?

TGWGWS
TGWGWS  Friend of PR
Advanced
TX USA
Member since 8/15/08
Posts: 225
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Date: 10/28/13 1:52 AM

The back looks too long. Try pinning a couple of inches out at the waist and see if that makes it fit any better. Also the shoulder seam does not look straight.

------
tgwgws

mmcp
mmcp  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/31/09
Posts: 228
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Date: 10/28/13 7:49 AM

When I had that pucker of fabric at the neck and was working with Sarah Veblen, she pinched it into a dart, which we then rotated around, but as this is a problem I often have, I'm really interested to see what others say.

JudyHan
JudyHan  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 1/11/08
Posts: 89
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Date: 10/28/13 7:54 AM

You need more shape in the back - it is the tilted waist or sway back. A center back seams or darts a solution? I also think the back of the top is bunching on the top of your behind and needs more room. I have found that a-line is the only way to go for woven tops for me. Tried the scout tee - many tunics, etc. w/ epic failure and still come back to the a-line because my fitting issues.

------
Get the quilters OUT OF MY WAY!

mare1234
mare1234
Member since 10/3/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 10/28/13 12:02 PM

Thank you for your replies. So far, I made the back darts deeper, and it looks like if I shorten by 3.5", I might be going somewhere. I also pinched out a wedge in the center front, but I am not sure how to translate that to my pattern.

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