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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Pattern sizing-Should I take into account a small band size? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Pattern sizing-Should I take into account a small band size?
mare1234
mare1234
Member since 10/3/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 10/28/13 8:37 PM

I am venturing into making more fitted tops and I still cannot figure out what size pattern to cut. I cut a size 12 on a blouse pattern (New Look 6808), and it has some problems that I posted about here:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/81465

I am short waisted with a small band size under the bust, 29-30" or so and I wear a 32d. If I cut a size 10, would that help with the extra fabric above the bust in the front, and below the shoulders in the back? I know I would need to shorten the pattern anyway, and possibly do a bust adjustment.
Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 647
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 10/28/13 8:52 PM

I think you have to think length rather than girth (pattern size). If you go down a size you might end up with a tight fitting, but still too long bodice. I saw your photos in your previous post and you'd need to pin some excess at the back around waist line to remove the fabric bulge.
The tops are "strangling" you because you don't have enough back armscye length. Back is borrowing from the front and your neckline is rising up.
I know it sounds odd that you need to remove length then add some, but you need to do some fabric re-distribution. Slash the patern across at back armscye level and add 2-2.5 cm, you'll be amazed at the difference and you won't need to reposition your shoulder seams (which basically achieves the same thing anyway, just in a slow and painful manner).

------
Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

mare1234
mare1234
Member since 10/3/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 10/29/13 11:08 AM

Lena, thanks for your reply. I am unsure about how to slash the back armscye. Do I slash all the way through? And where on the armscye, in the middle?
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