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First Lined Jacket
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/29/13 4:40 PM

I have this subtle plaid fabric and these cool faux leather brown buttons and am ready to dive into making my first lined jacket.

These are the patterns I have in my stash that are the classic blazer look that I have in mind.

I don't muslin in general. I hate to muslin. Doing a muslin makes me want to crawl into the far northwest corner and cry.

So with that said...can I do like a half muslin? Could I get a decent idea of fit if I work up half the jacket (half the front, half the back and a sleeve) or workup just the body of it?

If I'm being silly, it's okay to say so!




Amazing Fit S2446

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/29/13 6:42 PM

I would just bite the bullet and do a muslin. You don't have to do the collar or the lining, but you need to see how the body is going to fit.

And a subtle plaid fabric? Plaids can work well with very simple lines, but you've got all those princess seams and darts breaking things up. I suggest you get yourself a cotton plaid fabric and use it for a muslin so you can see what the fabric challenges are going to be!

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Debbie

Marie367
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 10/29/13 7:00 PM

That is a pretty classic style. You have alot of ability (I am amazed at your pants fitting!). Go for it. Make a muslin and jump on here to ask questions. Do you have a good sewing book? My very old Reader's Digest has great tips on making jackets. They are like anything else-if you get the fit right, the sewing is not that hard.
Can't wait to see the finished product!

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 10/29/13 8:24 PM

Make your lining first and use that to perfect the fit. There--you just made a muslin and didn't even know it. :)

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~Gem in the prairie

sings2high
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Date: 10/29/13 8:30 PM

Or use a cotton fabric in a color close to your fashion fabric, perfect the fit in that and use it as interlining and pattern in one.

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Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 2
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MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/29/13 8:31 PM

Bubble. Burst!oooh Debbie I hadn't thought if all those seams and darts.

Good points by all. I'm going to have to do a bit more research.

I have the Gasy Guide to Sewing Jackets (got it for a penny on amazon!)

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

grays08
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 10/30/13 9:29 AM

You aren't silly for thinking half muslin, you and I must think alike. I also don't muslin, hate it, would rather measure a dry pattern for hours than do it! I just made my husband a formal lined suit jacket (first time) for the PR contest and did a half muslin myself since I had to adjust quite a bit out of the shoulder width for him so didn't want to cut into my wool or my Bemberg lining. I'm sure most sewers are going to say don't do a half and muslin the whole thing, but here's my experience just in case you still want to charge on.....

Here's what I can tell you about doing just a half - it's fast, it works however you absolutely have to mark your center lines on both the back and front of the muslin since you only have half of them so you need this visual when fitting the muslin as these must be aligned. You lose the ability to fit the collar - I just left that section off my muslin as it wasn't a concern for me, but I can certainly see the value in making sure that area fits well prior to cutting. I found the half muslin to be valuable over not doing one at all, but I understand people will think I was crazy for not just doing a whole one however I think it's all in where you spend you pattern prep time. I had spent a ton of time measuring everything out and working from a basic block I had used before.

The best book I've ever used for jackets is Jackets for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch. I have them all, but it's the one I go back to time and time again. It also contains the much hyped "bagged lining" technique for doing it by machine.

The one thing about using your lining as the muslin, I would be careful with this somewhat. Usually your lining has an ease pleat in the center back and also should be slightly larger (depending on how you draft it or how it's drafted) to allow for wearing ease. I don't usually like to do this in jackets, but it's definitely an option.

Good luck to you! I know you'll hang in there and do a great job as you always do!

I realized I should clarify that I made my pattern adjustments up front before doing my half muslin. I knew from initial measurements that the shoulders had to be narrowed a lot so I did all of that adjusting prior to the muslin. I think a lot of depends on whether you have a set of standard adjustments you usually have to make and know them well or whether it's kind of new territory as to whether a half muslin has value.
-- Edited on 10/30/13 9:37 AM --

SewLibra
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Date: 10/30/13 2:47 PM

I am also a muslin hater, and only make one when I'm trying something new that can't be compared to any other successful pattern. When I do make a muslin, it's as brief a process as possible using only major parts. I did half a muslin once and used my dress form, which worked out fine for that particular project. It would have been hard fitting half a bodice on me without the dress form, though!

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 10/30/13 3:30 PM

Oh yeah, and with a plaid you will want to match the horizontal lines not just across the jacket body, but across the sleeves, too! And you'll want to be sure they're really parallel with the floor, right? And that the side of your body that's higher than the other doesn't make the plaid go wonky, and the vertical lines all need to be perfectly spaced around the jacket body, and...

Oh, my head hurts just thinking about plaids in anything more complicated than a two piece skirt.

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Debbie

MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/30/13 5:08 PM

Stop Debbie! Lol!! :)

Grays I'm a big proponent of flat pattern measuring, in my limited experience. I've made very few muslins and am okay if my first run of garment fits "pretty good" and second one fits WELL. I guess some consider it wearable muslins :)

(posted before I was ready!)

In my head, I saw the value of half a muslin! LOL! Off the bat I know I need a small FBA (from the C cup of the pattern if I choose S2446), swayback adjustment, and narrow shoulder adjustment. I know I have to lightly lower & shorten any bust darts and that my shoulders are a size smaller than what I need for my waist and hips.

Here's the plaid. I was convinced this wouldn't be "too bad" to have to match up!


-- Edited on 10/30/13 5:26 PM --

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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