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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pattern Alterations - am I on the right track? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pattern Alterations - am I on the right track?
Specific pattern alterations for my "odd" measurements
cjwdobermom
cjwdobermom
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USA
Member since 7/24/13
Posts: 5
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Date: 11/1/13 0:12 AM

I could use a little help to make sure I'm on the right track with my planned alterations. Here are my measurements:
Neck: 16
Chest: 39
Bust: 44
Band: 36
Waist: 36
Hips: 42
(Menopause is turning me into an apple!)
Common wisdom is to use your chest size when selecting a pattern size and do a FBA and adjust waist/hip as required.
So, using my measurements, that would put me into either an 18 or 20. I've tried 20. The bodice back was too big, and the armscye way too deep/too big.
So I've dropped to the 18. I traced a pattern off, doing a FBA to the front and found the back & neck was too small.
I don't want to add to the sides because I don't want to increase the armscye. My thoughts are to try what the fitting books say I shouldn't do - I'm going to add 1" total to the center back (1/2" to the pattern piece) to widen the neck. Knowing I have to apply a similar alteration to any collar/facings that go in that area as well.
Am I on the right track? Are there any other ways to increase the neck size and back width without increasing the armscye?
Thank you!
-- Edited on 11/1/13 0:13 AM --

------
Chris
Pfaff 260, Singer 2210, Janome 9900 :-)

KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 11/1/13 7:09 AM

Hello. Menopause does strange things to our bodies. My cute round bum flattened out and moved to my tummy and I am now also well insulated for the winter.

My first thought is that there is not usually a large difference between sizes, so if the 20 was too big and the 18 is too tight, I would not expect that difference to be more than 1/2 inch. Have you tried cutting between the sizes (assuming it is a multi-size pattern)?

There are 2 back adjustments I suggest you look into. First, the broad back adjustment. Second, a high upper back adjustment. I have a bit of rounding there from years hunched over a computer. Both of those might be what is needed, but they do not enlarge the neck if you need extra there. Getting the fit in the shoulders and neck effects how the garment hangs, so good to start there.

Lke so many others, I swear by the book Fit For Real People that shows adjustments for many issues. YouTube also is a good source for how to videos

Annette Wright
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Annette Wright  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/1/13 7:36 AM

If your gut says to go with the alteration you think might work, give it a try. That's why we make muslins.

I often have to cut a smaller back than front and have been known to just "slide" the pattern off the fold line a bit at the upper back. Heck if it works....

Let us know what you come up with. Or post photos of yourself wearing the different muslins and let people help you out.
-- Edited on 11/1/13 7:37 AM --

------
Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

MrsCharisma
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In reply to Annette Wright <<
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Date: 11/1/13 1:55 PM

Quote: Annette Wright
... have been known to just "slide" the pattern off the fold line a bit at the upper back. Heck if it works

Wait, is this not an acceptable practice?!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

cjwdobermom
cjwdobermom
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USA
Member since 7/24/13
Posts: 5
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 11/2/13 11:29 PM

So, I cut out the 18, did the back adjustment and the FBA. I'm pretty happy with the fit in the back. The collar fits great, but seems high - although that could just be the shirt's style - it's a "vintage" pattern from the 1990's! I seem to recall higher-necked collars then compared to now.
I'm not happy with fit in the front at all. I think doing the 2" FBA (total 4" adjustment) distorted the lines of the pattern, particularly below the bust dart.
I'll post pictures tomorrow after I get hubby to take some. I'd love & appreciate any feedback on the back, and there are things I see wrong on the front, I'm just not really sure how to fix them!

------
Chris
Pfaff 260, Singer 2210, Janome 9900 :-)

Quickie
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Date: 11/3/13 9:45 AM

I am now working on a vintage pattern and on it I find a little line for the " Natural neckline" so it might well be that this was mode I even have two very small darts in the neckline there

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