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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Vogue 8906 - Fitting Issues ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue 8906 - Fitting Issues
LizJ58
LizJ58
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 10/31/13
Posts: 192
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 11/1/13 11:23 AM

I've just gotten back into sewing after many years. Most of what I've made so far has been knit tops and not needed a lot of focus on fitting.

I have just finished my first woven blouse - Vogue 8906 in the button-front version - in a crinkled light/medium weight satin, and it's been a big disappointment.

I am a curvy size 18/20 (ready-made), 5'6", and long-waisted.

I chose this pattern because my experience has been that peplum style tops are flattering on my figure type (as long as they are long enough in the bodice). While this is not a peplum top, the pleats create a similar silhouette. Also, the v-neckline and dolman-style sleeves should flatter a plus size.

Wow, was I wrong.

I guess it's important to remember your first few sewing projects after getting back into sewing are pretty much learning experiences and won't guarantee a wearable garment.

Fitting didn't use to be this complicated...but I guess when I was a more slender, younger woman, I had less fitting issues.

At least, after browsing through these boards, I have some idea as to what went wrong...so, thanks for all the knowledge that you share!

First, I selected the size to cut by my bust size. I didn't worry too much about the waist (I know, that should be obvious). And I didn't measure the actual pattern pieces.

Second, I added 1 inch to the top length at the line indicated on the pattern. I could have easily added two inches, even though by written measurements 1 inch should be enough.

Third, the lengthening line went directly through the pleats, so I made the pleats longer. Big mistake. It would have been better to drop the pleats an inch lower.

Fourth, I have a big bust and a long bust. My chest assets seem to go from my neck most of the way to my waist! The dolman-style sleeve should have helped with the larger bust but didn't fully compensate for it.

Fifth - didn't try on before serging the side seams (LOL, yes, I should have known this one too!).

Sixth and Seventh - things I discovered here on the boards. The neckline seemed really low, and in the upper chest area there was a lot of fullness...I realized that the shoulder seams need to be taken in! Also, there was a funny bit of extra fabric in the back...and I realized I likely have a sway back.

So, I guess I've learned that it's really important to do a muslim first of a woven top or dress, even if it doesn't seem to be really fitted.

That, and a lot of this could have been avoided with a custom dress form - I'm newly resolved to work on the duct tape dress form project this weekend.

I was thinking of doing this top in a jersey, but I won't do that now unless I can get the fit right first. Unfortunately, there aren't really any patterns out there like this one (I would have tried one with set in sleeves if there had been one).


-- Edited on 11/1/13 11:28 AM --

Quickie
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Quickie
NETHERLANDS
Member since 10/8/10
Posts: 592
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Date: 11/1/13 11:33 AM

Well, now that you name it, I think the next top will be much better. Go on with the good work. I have had the same processus. Just the facts of live.....

PattyE
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PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1326
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In reply to LizJ58 <<


Date: 11/1/13 1:34 PM

I'm sorry this was a disappointment for you. I have this pattern but have not yet had a chance to make it.
However, I have done a couple recently that are similar and have set-in sleeves...StyleArc Suzies Sister Top and Butterick 5890. The SA pattern has a button front and the Butterick has a back zipper.
I think you will really like having a dressform.

LizJ58
LizJ58
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 10/31/13
Posts: 192
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In reply to PattyE <<


Date: 11/1/13 1:44 PM

I'll check out the StyleArc pattern..thanks!

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2153
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 11/1/13 5:26 PM

In my personal experience, I don't think dolman sleeves are flattering on the busty and/or plus-sized. They might be easy to make/fit, but that doesn't mean they're flattering. They work ok for me in knits because they're drapey and can be closer-fitted, but I avoid them in wovens.

I'm sure your next project will be more successful!

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