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Forum > Fitting Woes > Critique my muslin please ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Critique my muslin please
Simplicity 1699 jacket
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/4/13 11:37 PM

I am wanting to sew in a banana colored plaid suiting. S1699.

My muslin is made of cotton broadcloth and I'm wearing a pretty thin tee underneath.

I sewed a straight size 16, no changes. I think I need to adjust for my sloping left shoulder a bit. I don't think I need a narrow shoulder adjustment for this one. And I'm not sure if the dart placement is "right".












-- Edited on 11/4/13 11:38 PM --

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

marec
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
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Date: 11/5/13 0:42 AM

It is a good beginning! The sleeve cap needs to be shaved down a bit. Dart placement looks good-what do you think? Is it ending an inch before the apex of the front?

If I were making this jacket, I'd add a little bit to the upper back so I had more room. I seem to remember that you teach, and do lab work.

I'll be interested to see what more experienced people say.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Bethwhitch
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Date: 11/5/13 8:40 AM

I think it looks great! The only thing I think I might change is bringing it up a little in the fron for your left shoulder and I think you may be a bit smaller than the size you cut as seen in the back on the right side, maybe just take that in a tad... Can't really tell if the bust dart comes 1" below the apex and 1/2 " from it in the front but looks good! Best of luck I think this is a great idea, will do with my next muslin always good to get others helpful suggestions :0) enjoy!

MrsCharisma
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Date: 11/5/13 8:58 AM

Thanks guys!

Marec, I've always been a bit confused on the "correct" placement of darts, be it on tops or pants. I definitely need a little more room across the upper back.

I wondered about that 'wrinkle' in the right back side. Hmmm...I'll have to see.

the other thing is, the jacket will be lined, so I want to make sure I don't overfit the muslin and then have the jacket be constricting.

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

marec
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
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Date: 11/5/13 9:12 AM

Quote:
I definitely need a little more room across the upper back. I wondered about that 'wrinkle' in the right back side.


Remember, only make ONE change at a time in each new muslin. So, now release the CB to get some room and see if that is more comfortable. I think the wrinkle will be gone after you do that change.

I also would look at the sleeves more carefully AFTER doing the CB.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

MrsCharisma
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In reply to marec <<


Date: 11/5/13 11:11 AM

Right! Good reminder.

So about the sleeve cap...The links I found have you remove from the top/center of the cap. But the pleats are just off center so I don't want to disrupt the distance from each other. Should I do it on the "outside" of the pleat?

I love the pleated sleeve

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

GlButterfly

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Date: 11/5/13 1:32 PM

You are correct: do not overfit as this will be lined and go over a blouse or top. Darts should point to, and be shy of, the "mound", no matter what area of the body it is located.

Your pics are not quite straight on so I'm not sure how much your center front is lifting. Looking at the side view, it shows me that those wrinkles and the lift are suggesting more length is needed at the bust mound. Anyone else feel that way?

It will be a cute jacket.

P.S. You seem to be such a prolific sewer. Do you by any chance sew in your sleep?
-- Edited on 11/5/13 1:35 PM --

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Nancy K
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Date: 11/5/13 1:38 PM

You need a larger fba; it's hiking in front and there are drag lines pointing to the bust.
Make a tuck above the waist in back and add the same amount below the waist to keep the side seams the same. The back seems a bit wide as well.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

MrsCharisma
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In reply to GlButterfly <<
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Date: 11/5/13 1:47 PM

During the week I probably spend 60-90 minutes in the "cave". I lucked up last night as the Bears and Packers were playing so I could "watch" the game (read: Listen to hubby fuss about the game) while also being in the cave. I think it took about 90 minutes to cut the fabric and sew this muslin together!

I am a HUGE proponent of short bursts of time. I can get a lot done in 20 minutes and those 20 minute sessions add up!

Thanks for the dart tip; easy to remember, my kind of thing :)

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3179
online now
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Date: 11/5/13 1:50 PM

And yes, my daughter is quite a bit taller than I am and so the camera is angled downward. I'll have to get her to remember that mom is littl'er :)

Thanks Nancy! The tuck is to take care of that extra fabric?

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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