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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > The arm seam on my dress split open... ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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The arm seam on my dress split open...
...and then it got a lot worse
dawn

dawn
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Member since 12/18/03
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Date: 11/5/13 6:51 PM

I finished sewing BurdaStyle 8-2013-116 and wore it to work today. I made the dress in a blouseweight polyester and serged the seams with a 4-thread mock safety stitch that was 6 mm wide. The pattern called for "dress fabrics" and there seemed to be enough ease built into it that I thought it would work. I was putting on my jacket and heard a ripping sound that could only mean something bad. I must have stressed the seam when putting on my jacket, and it pulled apart at the seamline.

So I thought I'd fix the problem by turning it into a short sleeve dress, right? Then I noticed about 10" of the back skirt seam had also ripped open, and I'm not sure when that happened. I hate to think of the show I might have been putting on at work today. :(

Has anyone ever user successfully used fabric like this in a garment that gets some stress? Did I make the wrong seaming choice? I liked the look of the fabric with the pattern, so I might try something similar in the future, but I don't want my dress to fall apart with me in it.

Dawn

NancyZL
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In reply to dawn <<


Date: 11/5/13 7:53 PM

Oh gosh, I'm so sorry that this happened to you!! My take on it is that your "blouseweight polyester" was just too delicate for a dress. The seam used doesn't really matter . It may have also just been a little bit too tight for you & so the seams split. ( I once made a 4 year olds bridal party dress out of a very good quality velvet which lasted about 45 minutes until the seam split , arrghgh). I feel a more substantial fabric
with some minor fitting adjustments would work for you.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to dawn <<
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Date: 11/5/13 8:17 PM

I would suggest loosening your needle tension or lengthening your stitch length. A four thread mock safety stitch should hold the seams together; I've used this exclusively when I'm sewing fabrics--from knits to dress weight shirtings.

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HawkeMorningStar7
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Date: 11/5/13 8:45 PM

It may just be the fabric. Did the actual stitches come undone or did the fabric rip away from the seams with stitching intact?

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sings2high
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Date: 11/5/13 8:47 PM

Dawn, it really isn't clear from your description - is the dress fabric itself ripping at the seam or is the stitching thread giving way so the seam just falls apart?

------
Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 1 - woohoo! finished my oldest UFO - an apron cut out in the mid-80s with a pattern from the mid-40s! and the bias binding promptly disintegrated in the wash! Ok, it was from my Great-Grandmother's stash, which means it was bought anytime from the 1910's to 1970's.
Projects started recently completed in 2014: 1
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I know...I'm procrastinating.

dawn

dawn
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Date: 11/5/13 10:31 PM

The stitching itself held fine, but the fabric pulled apart. It's kind of hard to describe, but the vertical fabric threads (from both the garment side and the seam allowance) stayed in the seam. So when it pulled apart, the crosswise threads looked like fringe.

Dawn

Maripat
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Date: 11/6/13 9:25 PM

It sounds like the fabric is stressed.
Could you underline it with a lightweight fabric next time? Or maybe interface the seams, depending on whether or not it would show, of course?

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Quickie
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Date: 11/7/13 3:33 AM

With frafile materials it is good to test how to sew them. I test the seams on scrap and tear what i can. Most of the times it comes out that it is better to sew them with the conventional sewing machine and topstitch.

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