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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting the Abbey Coat ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting the Abbey Coat
I have wide shoulders and flabby arms
cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
Member since 8/20/12
Posts: 114
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Date: 11/6/13 3:17 PM

Hello, I am trying to fit this pattern, the Abbey Coat, correctly: http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/52410

However I am an intermediate beginner and have never really modified a pattern except for length, so I've a lot to learn...

My main issues are that I have wide shoulders/back (?) and flabby arms - so when my arms hang down it feels great but as soon as I want to reach for something or lift my arms, it becomes very uncomfortable and too tight.

If someone could point me in the direction of a good online tutorial or book about my specific issue, I would greatly appreciate it.

I don't know the correct vocabulary for my body type: is it wide back, wide shoulder, broad shoulder, flabby arm, wide arms....? The problem is that I am trying to search on google with "wide shoulder flabby arm fitting" but instead I get results about working out and fitness websites - i'm trying to modify my clothes, not me! So any correct sewing vocab would be great too.

As pictures speak better than words, I've included a lot below. I ran out of sheets so the sleeves are made in a busy print - bad idea now that I see the photos. Sorry for so many photos, but I think they're better than describing with words.

Thank you for any help!


















lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/6/13 4:33 PM

To me, it looks like there isn't enough ease in the back especially for a coat. Try doing a broad back adjustment. You will have to put in the sleeves to access how much of an adjustment to do and to determine if there are any other adjustments needed.
-- Edited on 11/6/13 4:33 PM --

TGWGWS
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Date: 11/7/13 1:15 AM

I agree about the ease in the back, but it also looks like the sleeve openings are too small and the sleeve cap may not have enough ease for a coat. I would grade up to the next size for the armhole opening and sleeve. The shoulder seam also looks too long, the sleeve is hanging off the edge of the shoulder slightly.

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Tina
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I do not weep at the world I am too busy sharpening my oyster knife.
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petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/7/13 2:33 AM

Does this coat design have any shoulder padding at all? Because a shoulder pad would raise the armhole slightly and change the fit.

cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/7/13 9:50 AM

No, no shoulder pads.
Thank you for all the help! "Broad back adjustment" brought up so many good tutorials in google. I have traced my pattern pieces and am ready to go and modify them, hope it all works out.

cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 2/9/14 11:52 PM

Update time!! I actually finished this coat a while back but have just now done the photo shoot for it. Thank you so much for all the help - i've got a coat now where I can lift up my arms and reach for things - all without any restrictive feelings making me uncomfortable!

My pattern review is here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/95289
My blog post with too many photos is here: http://cathywu.com/journal/kalali/2014/02/09/jamie-christina-vlisco-abbey-coat/





Thanks again!



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Date: 2/13/14 5:31 PM

Adorable coat! What did you use for fabric and I'm sure all would love to know what you did to make the fit better. Great job!

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to cathytxtwfr <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/13/14 6:13 PM

You....and the coat.....fantastic! Love how you combined your skill and imagination.

Okay, everyone, you will not want to miss the treat that is in store for you if you link to cathytxtwfr's blog to follow her coat adventure.

Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed the adventure.
-- Edited on 2/13/14 6:24 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to cathytxtwfr <<


Date: 2/14/14 3:15 PM

Removed by me
-- Edited on 2/14/14 3:16 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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Posts: 114
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In reply to a7yrstitch <<


Date: 2/14/14 5:17 PM

Thank you!! :)

Bunny, I used Vlisco wax for the fabric and I added ease to the armscye and sleeves using this tutorial here: http://www.afashionablestitch.com/2010/sewing/how-to-fit-my-body-pt-i/

Worked like a charm!

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