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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Coat muslin ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Coat muslin
Critique my fit
simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 11/6/13 3:44 PM

This is a coat muslin of a frankenpattern. Some of this, some of that and some self drafting to get the look I wanted.The look I'm after is a loosely structured, easy to wear coat.

The pictures mainly focus on the left side. I had to rotate the sleeve and didn't change the right side. The sleeve looks like it's not hanging right but that's because I didn't have the shoulder pad pinned in right and it twisted when I put it on and cf was already pinned. I straightened as best I could. Even without the pad the sleeve does hang beautifully. It better after all the work I put into it getting the fit right!

The fabric is fairly stiff and makes the coat look like it's tenting away from me (which it is in this fabric) but in a softer fabric (previous muslins) it doesn't hang away so much.

What concerns me is the drag lines in the back coming off my very prominent shoulder blades. If I pull fabric in at cb it removes some of that but it also takes away wearing ease. Same thing if I pull in some at the underarm seam. I know I could add darts but I really don't want to. See above about loosely structured. easy to wear. The coat will have a belt so that will bring it in a lot.

Picture set

DH say's I'm being to picky. Am I?

Debbie
-- Edited on 11/6/13 5:38 PM --

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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CA USA
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Date: 11/6/13 4:32 PM

If you take out the sleeves and pull up the back at the shoulders, do the drag lines go away? If yes, that would indicate to me that you either have a short length from back shoulders to waist, or, you have a long cb length.

Keep in mind that I'm no fitting expert. Maybe others will chime in.

------
I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/6/13 5:05 PM

My normal alterations are forward, sloping shoulder and round back.

When I did the sloping shoulder on this pattern it made the back worse so I undid that alteration.

I have tried pulling up at the outer shoulder and that didn't help.

Thanks,
Debbie

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/6/13 7:51 PM

It looks to me like the back side seam at the lower arm/underarm could be taken in just a little. But really, if your fabric had more drape, those would fall unto soft folds instead of sticking straight out.

------
Debbie

Nancy K
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Date: 11/6/13 10:06 PM

Did you make a rounded back alteration? Because that's where the drag lines seem to be pointing either you didn't make it or you didn't add enough room.
The sleeve cap looks like it's binding in front, but it doesn't look like it's too tight. I wish that you had grain and cross grain marked on your sleeve cap and across the upper back. This would make it easier to see what the problem is and how much you need to change it to get the line level.
I think that you need more room in the front of the sleeve cap to accommodate your forward shoulder. This is done by cutting from the front cap to the back seam and lowering the cut, adding fabric, and here is where the cross grainline comes in handy, until it hangs correctly.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 11/6/13 10:35 PM

Logically I know the wrinkles are from a round back but...Yes, a round back was done, my usual 3/4". My shoulder seams are spot on. If I do add any more it pushes the back neck, collar and neck edge shoulder seam too far forward. Peggy Sagers has a different approach to a round back that I'm going to try tomorrow. You dart/wedge out the armscye to zero at cb and drop the underarm seam the same amount. That doesn't affect the collar, neckline etc.

I think the reason the sleeve cap looks like it's binding (it's definitely NOT) is because I didn't have the shoulder pads pinned in right and they shifted. I'll cut another sleeve and mark grain lines to check it. I've already got so much height/ease in the front cap, because of the forward shoulder, it's a real pain to ease in.

I did have grain lines marked on the last muslin and everything was hanging straight and level. The only change I made was to add a bit more width to the sleeve from mid arm to hem.

I'm going to make the back change and will post new pics tomorrow.

Debbie

TGWGWS
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Date: 11/7/13 1:28 AM

It looks like there is not enough fabric from the back neck to the shoulder blade area. If you shift the whole coat backwards about an inch, do the drag marks go away?

------
tgwgws

Nancy K
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 11/7/13 2:37 PM

YOu can remove ease from the sleeve cap so that it won't be more than a 3/4" or maybe an inch for a coat.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Tizmehr
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 11/8/13 9:52 AM

You've done a lovely job of putting this pattern together. I absolutely love your coat.
For the round back alteration though, I'd do exactly the opposite of how you describe Peggy Sager's method. I'd have the wedge wider at the CB and going to nothing at the armscye. You don't need more room at the armhole, that's why you've got the drag lines now - the fabric is tight at CB but sagging past the armhole.

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 11/8/13 10:37 AM

Quote:
You've done a lovely job of putting this pattern together. I absolutely love your coat


Thanks. This Jessica Simpson coat is the look I was after but I had to downsize the collar a bit. At that size it was overwhelming on me. The coat wore me instead of me wearing the coat!

I usually do a round back the way you describe. Peggy's method works well if the neckline and shoulders hit where they should which seems unlikely given how a round back usually pulls everything to the back!

I tried Peggy's method yesterday, and while it solved the problem, it also pulled my shoulder seams to the back. I did a slash and spread this morning on my muslin and the wrinkles go away but it pushes the neckline and collar to far up and it's wrinkling underneath it because it's too high.
Now I need to fix that!

Would somebody remind me why I enjoy making my own clothing.

Debbie
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