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Forum > Fitting Woes > Skirt Muslin from hell! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Skirt Muslin from hell!
Help my butt please! :)
pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 11/10/13 8:55 PM

So, I've muslined this skirt too many times to count now, because I have no idea what I'm doing. It's getting so frustrating. Please help!
I have diagonal wrinkles on my butt. They look loose, I'm thinking they might be resting, scooching up on my ample derriere, lol.
I'm not sure what it means- do I need to add more width so they'll drop down?

Maybe reduce the dart intake a bit? I'm not sure why but maybe it'll help drop that fabric down...





Apologies for the blurry front pic, but I think the front looks okay, it's all the back action that's putting up a fight!
Good lord, I've spent so many hours on this, I hope I can make it work for me. The answer is out there somewhere surely!

Edit: GAH how come that last photo is coming up huge?? I don't know. Enjoy my huge wrinkly butt and let me know if you know how to fix it, haha
-- Edited on 11/10/13 8:59 PM --

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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/10/13 10:59 PM

So I'm not an expert but here's what I see: the balance lines are not disrtorted, so I think you are on the right track. But your small of the back area is obviously smaller than the pattern is expecting. Your darts probably need to be bigger and you may also need to take out some length in the upper back - maybe pin out a wedge, biggest at center back and tapering to the side seams, and see if it helps?

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simplystitches
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Date: 11/11/13 0:28 AM

In the side view the hbl at hip level is riding up at center. Slice through the line to see how much it spreads. You'll have to add it as a wedge. It also looks like you need a swayback alteration on the yoke.

There's a bit of pulling from the ss to your hips. Once you add the wedge that should go away.

Debbie

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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In reply to pinkcatflower <<


Date: 11/11/13 0:51 AM

If you have a dress form, you can put the muslin on the form inside out and pin out the excess. If you don't have a dress form, can you get a friend to pin out the excess in the back while you have it on? Once it is pinned to fit your shape, transfer the muslin to your pattern. Also, your back darts look extra long to me...not sure if that is the way the pattern is, or you made them longer in attempt to perfect your fit. You will get there, keep trying!

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emm0119
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In reply to simplystitches <<
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Date: 11/11/13 0:55 AM

I am shaped very similarly, so this looks familiar! I agree that the HBL is high in back. When skirts fall like this I find I have to add width at the side seams at my full hip level, but only to the back piece(s), to get it so the HBL can fall to where it should without my side seams getting out of whack. In other words, I need more fabric out back, not more out front. Step one is to add fabric so the skirt falls over your curves. Step two is to worry about how to dart out the extra fabric at your waist.

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emm0119
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In reply to emm0119 <<
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Date: 11/11/13 0:59 AM

Can you see how the side seam is angled back starting about hip level? That's a good clue that the back is pulling and wants more fabric.

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~Erin~
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TGWGWS
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Date: 11/11/13 1:14 AM

Please pardon my ignorance, but what is HBL and SS? I'm awful with acronyms and abbreviations. I had to put the Pattern Review list of abbreviations on my toolbar for my reference, but don't see those two listed. It's late and I know it will be something simple like CL means centerline.
-- Edited on 11/11/13 1:17 AM --

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emm0119
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In reply to TGWGWS <<


Date: 11/11/13 1:21 AM

Quote: TGWGWS
Please pardon my ignorance, but what is HBL and SS? I'm awful with acronyms and abbreviations. I had to put the Pattern Review list of abbreviations on my toolbar for my reference, but don't see those two listed. It's late and I know it will be something simple like CL means centerline.
-- Edited on 11/11/13 1:17 AM --

Horizontal body line and side seam. :)

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~Erin~
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Marilly
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Date: 11/11/13 5:25 AM

What happens if you shorten the darts by say..half? That's one way to add fabric in the back. After that then try letting out the side seams for the back only and see if that helps.
This looks JUST like the textbook pic of the high contoured buttock from "Fitting and Pattern Alterations" 2nd ed. The fix they show is just shortening the darts.
Shel (who has the exact opposite fit issue)

Pinkytoo
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In reply to Marilly <<


Date: 11/11/13 7:35 AM

As someone with the same problem - and BTW it's not necessarily an ample butt, it's just up higher than most patterns think it should be (that's my story and I'm sticking to it!!):

the darts are too long. They need to end where your back ends and your butt starts Once you get that right you can see if anything else needs to be done but definitely start there.

p.s. although I replied to Marily I meant to reply to the original poster. Also - to the original poster, it looks like the back darts should end at the same place the door handle is pointing to!
-- Edited on 11/11/13 7:38 AM --

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