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Message Board > Fabrics and more... > I want a red coat. How do I not get cold? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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I want a red coat. How do I not get cold?
Pattern, shell & lining picked, but what to use for interlining?
Czedwards
Czedwards
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Date: 11/12/13 0:08 AM

My next big project is a winter coat. I plan to use McCall's 6800. I plan to muslin it (and with luck get a wearable autumn/spring coat) from a set of recycled Ikea curtains and Ikea polarvide fleece throws.

I have 7 yards of a gorgeous medium to heavy wool gabardine in British scarlet. It's lighter than most coatings, but heavier than a suiting, so I know it will need underlining to be useful in a Colorado February. Lining will be a mix of rayon satin and silk (also stash fabrics).

What do I use for underlining? Flannel? More thin fleece? Perhaps velux blanketing? I really don't want to take apart my current winter coat to investigate, because for now, I need the one I have, but I don't know what goes between the shell and lining.

annsew65
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annsew65
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Date: 11/12/13 4:27 AM

Oh, what a beautiful coat! I don't think I've ever seen this pattern before. I'm not too sure I care for the hemline, but to each his own. It looks like it is going to be quite a lot of work with all those pieces and seams - but that is what is so gorgeous about it! Yes - for me I think I'd go with some well washed flannel. Not too bulky but warm indeed. I'd interline the lining rather than the coat itself.

You know, the more I look at it, the more I like the hemline! It really goes with the style of the pattern. With the open neck, I wondered about keeping warm too, but buttoning it up to the throat as shown in one of the pics would surely solve the problem. Just gorgeous!

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KathySews
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Date: 11/12/13 7:22 AM

Oh beautiful coat. Wool flannel would be a good choice. I am using thinsulate, but be aware that it is not to be dry cleaned. That can be a problem with a wool coat.

sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
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Date: 11/12/13 7:35 AM

When I was growing up I remember my winter coats interlined in what I now know is technically called shoddy... that is the wool equivalent of particle board. How about using either an old wool blanket or ugly wool yardage. You might find some on a sale rack.how about felting sweaters and sewing the results together??

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signemarie
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Date: 11/12/13 7:59 AM

I dont know if its available near you, but thinsulate underlining fabrics are availabe by the yard in most shops here.

I tried most of the the different weights (100, 200 and 300) and found even the thinnest to be very insulating compared to their light weight. They are labeled with a comfort temperature to make it easy to pick the right one for your project.

I quilted the thinsulate to my lining fabric, having cut out the thinsulate without seam gauge to reduce bulk. Apart from that, it was just like attaching a normal lining.

In fabric stores here, it's simply labelelled as thinsulate and a number, the higher number, the better insulation.
-- Edited on 11/12/13 8:02 AM --

Czedwards
Czedwards
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In reply to annsew65 <<


Date: 11/12/13 11:53 AM

Lots of seams was what attracted me -- every garment I make takes lots of adjustment because I'm built like the prow of a ship, so the more seams where I can adjust the bust, the better off I am.

I probably will go with the v-neck collar since I wear scarves and I don't like high collars. I'll probably not make the hi-lo hem, though. I like it, but I think that's a trend look rather than a classic one, and long-term wear is part of the idea. Perhaps I'll make a spring/autumn with the hi-lo. I'm not looking forward to the hem. *grin*

It's a new pattern, just released for 2013 autumn. It was the only thing in the collection I liked.

Czedwards
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 11/12/13 11:56 AM

Thanks -- I'll go looking for Thinsulate. I don't dry-clean anyway -- even the Green version is pretty toxic -- so that's not a worry. I figure if the world managed to clean wool for 10,000 years without perc, a gentle, cold wash and hang dry will probably not destroy modern wool.

Czedwards
Czedwards
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In reply to sarah in nyc <<


Date: 11/12/13 12:02 PM

I'll check the army-navy surplus store for surplus blankets. I don't think I'm up to felting sweaters, though that's an interesting idea.

That would certainly provide structure.

Czedwards
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In reply to signemarie <<


Date: 11/12/13 12:18 PM

Thanks. Colorado is much warmer than our media presentation shows, because winter sports is an essential part of our economy. Truly, we have lots of sun and we don't usually get much below -18 C (0 F); most winter days are between -5 C and 10 C, so coats are mostly about cutting wind and an extra layer. The lightest Thinsulate will probably cover most of my needs. And thanks for the quilting tip -- that will make constuction much easier.

beauturbo
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Date: 11/12/13 2:08 PM

I have actually even seen a few very nicely made wool coats, in the thrift shops actually, that were rather medium or heavy Wool on the outside, satin lining, and when I lifted up the lining at the hem and peeked under there, (and wanted to do that, just since it felt a bit padded under there, and I wanted to see what it was) and I saw real fur! Like a very short haired fur coat! Possibly rabbit fur or something like that. I think more in the body of the coat though, and probably not in the sleeves. And the sleeves probably had instead, some kind of quilted underlining.

I have never seen that in any Coats at all, in any of the stores in the USA, of any decade of coats, but I think these particular coats may have come from some place in Europe and I don't think they were hand made at all, unless by a Tailor for the person, as they did have sewn tags and even a monogram in the lining. But that is thought, as I could see how that short haired fur as a interlining in the body of it, would trap air in between the two layers and probably be pretty warm. If you had an old rabbit fur coat or such, you could cut it up, and stick it in there possibly.

For real cold (which I'm not particular good in) I like down. As in a feather down coat from neck to knees or even better at least the top of my boots. I think you could even have some kind of "zip in" quilted down lining in the body of the coat too, if you wished. Rather than make that from scratch though, maybe use a thin down already quilted into the channels kind of comforter or throw, and just even cut it up, and use it in there?

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