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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Adjusting sleeve size ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Adjusting sleeve size
Mathmaticaly or or pin in place & adjust
kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/13/13 0:02 AM

Made a test with Swedish tracing paper on Simplicity 2247 short sleeve. I have to make adjustments that will affect the sleeve size. Can I determine how much to change the sleeve with math, pin in place matching notches and cut excess or what is best to insure fit on final fabric. First time on ladies garment, parts a bit more difficult than I thought.

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lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/14/13 3:26 PM

What adjustments did you make that you feel you have to change the sleeve size? Change width, cap, length? I think we need more information as to what you did and what you are trying to do to help you.

-- Edited on 11/14/13 4:13 PM --

kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 11/16/13 5:06 PM

Have not made any yet. Need to take in side front seams which I am guessing will change the opening size of the sleeve opening. Thanks

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kayakpeak

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 11/16/13 7:28 PM

Because a sleeve is a curved piece of fabric (although appearing in a flat piece of fabric) going over a shoulder, you might want to reconsider this option. If you were to pin it in place, matching the notches, you might have results that affect the upper part of the sleeve and the notches won't change this. The notches are used to show where the French curve of the sleeve draft is pivoted, nothing more.

If the sleeve head needs to have less fullness, you can make a slash from the cap down to the armscye and overlap the amount needed. But keep in mind, once the bicep comes into play, that might create another problem. If it's the opposite, it's spreading the amount. And if it's for a forward shoulder, which would shorten the front and lengthen the back, that's another issue.

You weren't really specific in what you need to do, increase/decrease, forward shoulder, etc., and maybe it might be a good idea for you to post exactly what it is you need help with.

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lca
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Date: 11/18/13 4:45 PM

If you are taking in the side seams all the way up to the armhole, than I am assuming the bust area is too big and yes that would change the shape and size of the armhole.

Why don't you try a smaller size pattern based on the upper bust measurement to get the shoulders, neck, and upper bust fit first. Then make the appropriate changes to bust, waist and hips if necessary. A good reference book is The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. Some people prefer Fit for Real People.

Once you get the bodice to fit, check the sleeve to make sure the bicep measurement will go around the person's bicep. If not, there are ways to increase/decrease it. However, the easiest thing to do is pick the sleeve that will fit and take the armhole from that size and use it on your pattern. Sleeves and armholes are drafted to go together.

So to summarize, I don't want to redraft the sleeve or armhole. I just pick another one. Most patterns are multi-sized.

I hope this doesn't overwhelm you. For a beginner this is an excellent observation and question.
-- Edited on 11/18/13 4:54 PM --

kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/20/13 1:57 PM

Is it even possible that a given pattern sizing can be different by a numerical factor of 5 compared to RTW sizing. My wife's RTW sizing is an 8, (I've checked her closet) but based on her measurements we've both agreed to this Simplicity pattern #2247 indicates between 14 and 16. I don't get it.

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kayakpeak

frame
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frame
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In reply to kayakpeak <<


Date: 11/20/13 2:13 PM

Yes because pattern sizing goes by measurements. RTW sizing doesn't use the same criteria. RTW uses "vanity" sizing. Back in the day - 20 or 30 years ago - a person with a 20" waist would have worn a size 14 RTW, now a 20" waist is probably a size 8 or something.

It's important not to get caught up in the "sizing" of patterns. Concern yourself with the fit. Make the garment fit and you can put any size label you want in it.

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lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/20/13 3:44 PM

RTW sizing is not the same as pattern sizing. One way to know what size to start with is to measure the finished measurements (bust, across shoulder, waist hip) of something in her closet and then find a pattern THAT MEASURES close to those measurements, specifically the bust and shoulders. Do not go by the pattern envelope. Measure the pattern pieces.

-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:02 PM --
-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:03 PM --

frame
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 11/20/13 5:22 PM

Quote: lca
Measure the pattern pieces.


Yes, thank you! That's excellent advice.

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