SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Fitting Woes > Adjusting sleeve size ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Adjusting sleeve size
Mathmaticaly or or pin in place & adjust
kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
Beginner
Washington USA
Member since 11/2/12
Posts: 47
Send Message

      



Date: 11/13/13 0:02 AM

Made a test with Swedish tracing paper on Simplicity 2247 short sleeve. I have to make adjustments that will affect the sleeve size. Can I determine how much to change the sleeve with math, pin in place matching notches and cut excess or what is best to insure fit on final fabric. First time on ladies garment, parts a bit more difficult than I thought.

------
kayakpeak

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 633
Send Message

      



Date: 11/14/13 3:26 PM

What adjustments did you make that you feel you have to change the sleeve size? Change width, cap, length? I think we need more information as to what you did and what you are trying to do to help you.

-- Edited on 11/14/13 4:13 PM --

kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
Beginner
Washington USA
Member since 11/2/12
Posts: 47
Send Message

      



In reply to lca <<


Date: 11/16/13 5:06 PM

Have not made any yet. Need to take in side front seams which I am guessing will change the opening size of the sleeve opening. Thanks

------
kayakpeak

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



In reply to kayakpeak <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 11/16/13 7:28 PM

Because a sleeve is a curved piece of fabric (although appearing in a flat piece of fabric) going over a shoulder, you might want to reconsider this option. If you were to pin it in place, matching the notches, you might have results that affect the upper part of the sleeve and the notches won't change this. The notches are used to show where the French curve of the sleeve draft is pivoted, nothing more.

If the sleeve head needs to have less fullness, you can make a slash from the cap down to the armscye and overlap the amount needed. But keep in mind, once the bicep comes into play, that might create another problem. If it's the opposite, it's spreading the amount. And if it's for a forward shoulder, which would shorten the front and lengthen the back, that's another issue.

You weren't really specific in what you need to do, increase/decrease, forward shoulder, etc., and maybe it might be a good idea for you to post exactly what it is you need help with.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 633
Send Message

      



Date: 11/18/13 4:45 PM

If you are taking in the side seams all the way up to the armhole, than I am assuming the bust area is too big and yes that would change the shape and size of the armhole.

Why don't you try a smaller size pattern based on the upper bust measurement to get the shoulders, neck, and upper bust fit first. Then make the appropriate changes to bust, waist and hips if necessary. A good reference book is The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. Some people prefer Fit for Real People.

Once you get the bodice to fit, check the sleeve to make sure the bicep measurement will go around the person's bicep. If not, there are ways to increase/decrease it. However, the easiest thing to do is pick the sleeve that will fit and take the armhole from that size and use it on your pattern. Sleeves and armholes are drafted to go together.

So to summarize, I don't want to redraft the sleeve or armhole. I just pick another one. Most patterns are multi-sized.

I hope this doesn't overwhelm you. For a beginner this is an excellent observation and question.
-- Edited on 11/18/13 4:54 PM --

kayakpeak
kayakpeak  Friend of PR
Beginner
Washington USA
Member since 11/2/12
Posts: 47
Send Message

      



Date: 11/20/13 1:57 PM

Is it even possible that a given pattern sizing can be different by a numerical factor of 5 compared to RTW sizing. My wife's RTW sizing is an 8, (I've checked her closet) but based on her measurements we've both agreed to this Simplicity pattern #2247 indicates between 14 and 16. I don't get it.

------
kayakpeak

frame
star
frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3430
Send Message

      



In reply to kayakpeak <<


Date: 11/20/13 2:13 PM

Yes because pattern sizing goes by measurements. RTW sizing doesn't use the same criteria. RTW uses "vanity" sizing. Back in the day - 20 or 30 years ago - a person with a 20" waist would have worn a size 14 RTW, now a 20" waist is probably a size 8 or something.

It's important not to get caught up in the "sizing" of patterns. Concern yourself with the fit. Make the garment fit and you can put any size label you want in it.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 633
Send Message

      



Date: 11/20/13 3:44 PM

RTW sizing is not the same as pattern sizing. One way to know what size to start with is to measure the finished measurements (bust, across shoulder, waist hip) of something in her closet and then find a pattern THAT MEASURES close to those measurements, specifically the bust and shoulders. Do not go by the pattern envelope. Measure the pattern pieces.

-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:02 PM --
-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:03 PM --

frame
star
frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3430
Send Message

      



In reply to lca <<


Date: 11/20/13 5:22 PM

Quote: lca
Measure the pattern pieces.


Yes, thank you! That's excellent advice.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Adjusting sleeve size

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Register

Create a Jacket Muslin
Create a Jacket Muslin

Register

McCall's 6513

photo
by: renelope

Review
Sew Chic Phantom Jacket and Pant Pattern (ln1106)

Sew Chic Phantom Jacket and Pant Pattern (ln1106)

Buy Now
Christine Jonson Boyfriend Jacket and Shell

Christine Jonson Boyfriend Jacket and Shell

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.