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Forum > Fitting Woes > Kimono sleeve fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Kimono sleeve fitting
Shoulder seam slides behind shoulders
annie11
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Date: 11/17/13 6:54 PM

I'm spent my weekend trying to get the shoulder seam Vogue 8961 to not slide behind my shoulders.

I've made 3 versions- trying different alterations each time- the first with a FBA, the second one with a a high round back adjustment plus FBA, the third with a high round back, FBA, and shortening the front neckline.

It looks fine at first, but as soon as I start moving, the shoulder seam falls to the back. None of the alterations are having any effect! They've all been out of completely different fabrics too- the first a gabardine, the second a crepe, and the third a challis.

Is this just what happens with a Kimono sleeve like this? Or is there any other alteration that might work?

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Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 11/17/13 7:37 PM

I've noticed that raglan does it very often. For my coat pattern I moved the shoulder seam forward to compensate for this. It seemsto work

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simplystitches
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Date: 11/17/13 7:55 PM

I have a self drafted TNT kimono sleeve top and had a similar problem the first time I wore it. I was finally able to fix it with a few tweaks. YMMV

Line up the front and back ss, underarm and sleeve seams. First the shoulder seams need to have the same angle from neck to sleeve hem. The back needs to be longer than the front and consistently the same from shoulder to hem. I think mine's about 1 1/4"-1 1/2" with a round back. That's off the top of my head and the pattern's not in front of me.

I had to do a round back a year after the first draft and that's when I found that the shoulder seams need to be at the same angle. I didn't change the angle of the front and had the sleeve tilting back. When I changed the front shoulder/sleeve angle to match the back (with no net change in fit) the sleeve didn't want to slide to the back at the end of my shoulder.

My pattern is for knit so you may need a bigger difference between front and back in a woven.

One thing you could do to try and get an idea of how much of a difference you need front and back is cut one with extra wide sa's on both front and back shoulders/sleeves, baste the seams up and wear. If it slides back add to the back and/or remove from the front. My instincts tell me you'll need to add to the back and keep the front the same.

Debbie

annie11
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 11/17/13 11:19 PM

Thanks for sharing your process! I had added to the back, but not all the way to the sleeve hem, so I will see if that might do the trick.

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GlButterfly

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Date: 11/17/13 11:51 PM

Cheater's way I have used: if all is balanced and nothing is "hiking up", I would just move the seam.

If this is the only time it has happened, then it just could be bad designing.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

annie11
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Date: 11/18/13 10:38 AM

The original pattern's back and front sleeve width are the same. Do you think that could be a drafting error?

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diane s
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Date: 11/18/13 11:31 AM

I do a forward shoulder adjustment on most everything I make.

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m/m

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In reply to annie11 <<


Date: 11/18/13 4:20 PM

Could be that you either carry your head a bit forward (think peering at a computer screen too long for too many days), or you have forward shoulders or a round back especially if tops always tend to slide back on your shoulders or down the back of your neck. Louise Cutting did an article on an easy pattern fix for this in Threads earlier this year. It's an easy correction and her instructions work well. I don't have the issue here but it looks like it's available to insiders online.

simplystitches
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In reply to annie11 <<


Date: 11/18/13 5:31 PM

I wouldn't call it a drafting error but....

If you compare most armhole drafts the back is usually/should be about 1/2" longer than the front.

Why don't you do as I suggested above and make a quick muslin with extra on front and back shoulder/sleeves so you can adjust after wearing OR you could try removing 1/2" from the front and adding it to the back.

If you choose the first option wear it for a while so it slides back because that's clearly telling you the back wants more length. Also check to see if it's the same from neckline to outer shoulder. if it's different it could be forward shoulder, round back or both! I'm lucky enough to need both. Yeah me.

If that doesn't work post pics of front, side and back.

Debbie

annie11
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Date: 11/18/13 7:58 PM

I removed 1" from the front shoulder seam all the way from the shoulder to the sleeve hem, and added the 1" to the back, and it worked! I removed all of my prior alterations- no FBA, no high round back, no neck changes.

It feels so much better. Thank you all for your suggestions! I will try to get some pictures and post a review soon.

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