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How to narrow shoulder on princess seam B5683
Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
Member since 6/7/11
Posts: 217
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Date: 11/18/13 3:54 PM

I need to narrow the shoulder 2.5" on armhole princess seam pattern B5683, view A. I have tried the pivot method, but it doesn't work. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
skae
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skae  Friend of PR
Member since 4/23/07
Posts: 3705
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to Sunshine12242

Date: 11/18/13 4:15 PM

Trace your pattern armhole both front and back on a piece of paper. All the pieces that make the armhole.
I should trace the pattern onto tracing pattern fabric.
Then take some paper and trace the armhole with the piece put together that make the armhole.
Measure on top. 2.5 inches in from the edge of the armhole including seam allowance.
This measurement from the end already gives the seam allowance. Take your traced armhole measure up slide it over
the 2.5 inches and there you have it. If that doesn't work sew in darts on top.
I sure hope this helps you. If you don't I will draw picture for you.

------
Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
USA
Member since 9/18/04
Posts: 2026
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 11/18/13 6:40 PM

Butterick 5683 has an armhole princess seam, so the shoulder seam is not divided. Can you describe how Pivot and Slide did not work for you?

Try pinning the the side panel pattern piece to the center panel pattern piece at the armhole, matching the stitching lines. Now you can pivot the shoulder and the entire armhole together, just as if you were dealing with a single pattern piece. That should allow you narrow the shoulder seam line via P-n-S, and get the correct arm hole curve.

ETA: I just re-read the original post. If you need to take 2.5-inches off the shoulder seam, perhaps you can start with a smaller size (which will give you a shorter shoulder seam) and then increase the pattern for the bust, etc.

Did you select the size to start with by your front chest measurement (armhole crease-to-armhole crease)? One of the goals of P-n-S is to start with a size that more-or-less fits your shoulders, and then make adjustments as needed. A 2.5-inch discrepancy sounds like the shoulders do not fit and you should start with a smaller size.

CMC
-- Edited on 11/18/13 6:48 PM --
Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
Member since 6/7/11
Posts: 217
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In reply to Sunshine12242

Date: 11/19/13 8:08 AM

Thank you both for your suggestions. Yes, I measured the high bust from arm to arm and decided on what size to purchase. I agree, that it makes sense to purchase a pattern closer to my shoulder size, but I can't locate the shoulder listing on any pattern or how it is determined from the pattern envelope.

Unfortunately, I have purchased the smallest size for this pattern, so that isn't an option to me.
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