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Forum > Fitting Woes > Diagnosing my young daughter's pants fitting issues ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Diagnosing my young daughter's pants fitting issues
Cannot get my pattern adjustments right for crotch fit
Jenniel73
Jenniel73  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/18/13 8:51 PM

Okay...after trying and trying I'm still at a loss as how to accommodate my daughter's drooping/extra crotch fabric issue. I have finally taken some photos. The pants she is wearing are rtw. But they do illustrate the issue fairly well. Although anything other than leggings have even more pools of fabric in the front crotch. She wears her pants down under her belly like that because if she pulls them up over her belly then they give her a front crotch wedgie...sagging or wedgie...two wonderful extremes.

-- Edited on 11/18/13 9:00 PM --
-- Edited on 11/18/13 9:24 PM --
-- Edited on 11/18/13 9:27 PM --

------
Jennie, Washington DC

beauturbo
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Date: 11/18/13 9:15 PM

I think maybe no one can see it, because possibly you have made your Shutterfly page private, and it so it asks for sign on's and passwords for access?

Jenniel73
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In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 11/18/13 9:26 PM

I'm hoping this works now....

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Jennie, Washington DC

Sewliz
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Date: 11/18/13 9:26 PM

This link works for me pants photos

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

emm0119
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In reply to Jenniel73 <<


Date: 11/18/13 10:06 PM

It looks to me like she needs more total crotch length. The fabric is pulling into the back crotch around her legs and she is avoiding the same issue up front by having the pants pulled low. It is hard to tell from the pics whether she needs more overall crotch depth or also/rather additional crotch length at the crotch points. I would try adding depth first if the thighs usually fit her fine.

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~Erin~
Bernina 1130
Brother CS6000i
Brother 1034D serger

emm0119
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Date: 11/18/13 10:09 PM

Quick way to test would be to tug the pants down evenly front and back and see if the crotch hangs better front and back. If so, add the distance you tugged them down.

------
~Erin~
Bernina 1130
Brother CS6000i
Brother 1034D serger

Elona
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In reply to Jenniel73 <<
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Date: 11/19/13 0:01 AM

Wrinkles that are horizontal mean that there's not enough girth or distance around a body; vertical wrinkles show there's too much girth; and diagonal wrinkles often require more sophisticated analysis. Really.

The photos indicate that your girl needs a tad more girth at the tummy/bum/upper thigh level. See the horizontal wrinkles on the pants failures here and here?

On the other hand, this is what a too long crotch looks like. When you walk or sit, the fabric at the front of the crotch literally pools in your lap. It's extra fabric, extra length, and that's different from your DD's situation.

Two suggestions:

1. When sewing pants for her, flat-pattern measure to make sure that she is not larger at the waist, hips, and thighs than the pattern. If she is, or is close to it, it would be better to cut a half-size or a size larger in those areas. You can always take it in.

2. Pin a piece of 1" elastic around her waist and have her wiggle around a bit so that the elastic settles into her natural waistline. Then take a tape measure and run it from the bottom of the front waistband between her legs and up to the bottom of elastic at the back. Hold the tape the distance from her body that she'd wear the pants (and closer is better than distant, apart from getting so tight that you run into the dreaded 'camel toe'), and you'll have what's called the 'stride measurement.'

These two maneuvers should help with the problems you are having.



-- Edited on 11/19/13 0:09 AM --

Jenniel73
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In reply to emm0119 <<


Date: 11/19/13 1:36 PM

this is how she typically wears her pants because she likes the way they feel this way...under her belly but high enough in the back to cover her lower back. So i have to make sure any adjustments i do will accomidate for the strange pants positioning. I've read and read and read web articles about various fixes but I can't seem to get them quite right.

I will try the suggestions and report back

------
Jennie, Washington DC

Jenniel73
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In reply to Elona <<
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Date: 11/19/13 1:46 PM

Well i've tried to fix the problem by just cutting things bigger in the front but this has created that pooling in that area under her waistline that is because she does not wear her pants any differently than the picture shows - under the belly in the front and into the lower back. this creates this bizarre diagonal waistband that i'm not sure how to contend with either! Maybe if I make the half U part in the front deeper BUT don't lengthen the pattern...meaning I should maybe cut the pattern then deepen the U? I feel like I tried this before and it still pooled...or camel toed

I'll try that stride measurment. that is the one I have never done before. how would i then apply those measurements to alter the pattern?

------
Jennie, Washington DC

emm0119
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Date: 11/19/13 2:33 PM

Her yanking on the pants in the back to get them to cover her bottom, then having to have the front sit low, definitely sounds like crotch depth/stride length problems to me. "Stride" measurement is also often referred to as crotch length, so keep that in mind if you do any searching. Stride/crotch length is the whole length of the U shape - you need a flexible ruler to measure it (or use a string and hold that up to a ruler). Depth refers to just the vertical distance from waist band to crotch - you can estimate it by having her sit on a flat chair and them measuring with a ruler beside her from the surface of the chair to the point on her side where she wants the waist to sit on her pants.

Here are some links with decent photos/explanations that might help you figure out which:
The Perfect Fit - google books preview
Making Perfect Pants
Blog post with diagram from Pants for Real People

------
~Erin~
Bernina 1130
Brother CS6000i
Brother 1034D serger

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