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Forum > Fitting Woes > Simplicity 9811 (Vintage) Muslin ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Simplicity 9811 (Vintage) Muslin
demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 11/20/13 2:14 PM

I'm working on a muslin for Simplicity 9811 (1971):


I want to do View 1, on the far right with the cute bell sleeves.

I'm working on my first muslin, and I had thought it fit reasonably well until I looked at the photographs. I knew I had some adjustments to do, but I didn't realize it was so very far off from a good fit.









I don't have help with fitting or any kind of dressmaker's dummy, and this is my first time making a dress or sewing curved seams.

I looks to me like even though I picked the "right" size according to the pattern (there is only one size in the package), the shoulders and bust are too large for me, and it's really throwing off the whole thing. I am not sure what adjustments to make to deal with this. I had really hoped that the top would fit and I'd be able to adjust further down.

How do I tackle this beast? I haven't yet managed to get a top to fit in a way I like, and I am not used to princess seams.

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Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

HanPanda
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Date: 11/20/13 2:41 PM

For what it's worth, I think you're off to a great start!!! It looks like your side front and side back pieces need to be taken in a little bit. Definitely dwarfing you a little bit. I'm sure plenty of folks will weigh in soon; fitting is still something I am working on improving!! :)

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2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 93 yards
Sewn: 62.5 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 11/20/13 2:45 PM

I guess so. Hubby seems to think that if I take in the sides from the armholes to the waist I'd solve a lot of the bagginess. I think that might be a start, since the princess seams actually do fall in the right place for me. However, I feel like the center front pieces might also be too big, plus there is the (front? and) back-neck gaping, the shoulders possibly being too wide (I can't tell!), etc. I get lost about where to start adjusting--especially since I can't see or reach anything to pin it.
-- Edited on 11/20/13 2:46 PM --

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Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

jannw
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In reply to demoiselle <<
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Date: 11/20/13 3:05 PM

It looks to me like you might need a round back adjustment. That would solve the back neck gaping and a lot of the problem with the armholes.

To really tell on the shoulders, you need to baste in the sleeves.

I've always heard that you start with the back and then work towrds the from on adjustments.

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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

HanPanda
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Date: 11/20/13 3:16 PM

If you just take it in at the sides, you might risk pulling the princess seams away from their proper position. I would take it in from both side of the pattern piece. I'm sure others have advice to chime in too!

As for the neck...I have methods I would do to fix it but I will wait for someone else to chime in....I could be really wrong ;)

------
2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 93 yards
Sewn: 62.5 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 11/20/13 3:39 PM

In the photos, it looks like the waistline is too low, and you need to shorten the dress above the waist. The photo from the back in particular seems to indicate that the bodice above the waist needs to be shortened.

I realize that it doesn't have a "visible" waistline with a band, but there IS a specific spot where the waistline is intended to fall. The pattern tissue should have the waistline marked, and you can compare that with your body measurements.

Keep in mind that this is your natural waistline, not the spot where the waistband of low-rise pants or low-waist skirts sit on your body.

If you are going to take in the dress, you should be using all the seams; the side seams and the princess seams.

CMC

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 11/20/13 4:01 PM

Thank you. I'm double checking the waistline with a string. At first the two match up just right, but the string does tend to roll up and down so I'll wait and see where it settles.

ETA: You are right. The string rolls up to about 1" above the marked WL of the muslin. So I need to fold out about 1" on the adjustment line above the WL on the pattern.

How do I figure out if I need to take in the top at the seams vs. doing something like a small bust or a narrow back adjustment?

Also, how can I be sure the neck gaping at back and front is due to a round back rather than gaping because the pattern is too big?
-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:06 PM --
-- Edited on 11/20/13 4:06 PM --

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Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

PeppermintPam
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Date: 11/20/13 5:13 PM

First adjust the length. Do this on all the pattern pieces.

Then take in all the vertical seams (except the back) an equal amount. Try figuring out about how much extra fabric you have by pinching the extra out at the side seams, then divide that by 6 since you have 6 seams you are taking in. For example if you can pinch out 1 1/2" at each side seam, that is 1 1/2" off the front and back pieces (or 3" total)at each side, for a total of 6" of extra circumference. Divide that by 6, and that is 1". So you would need to take in each seam 1" total- which means sewing 1/2" in from your original stitching lines. (Hope I explained this right.) Then try it on again, and see how it looks.

Oh, and when you're pinching out the extra, make sure you don't make it too tight - you still need room to breathe and move.

You won't know if you need a bust adjustment until you get the length and circumference correct.

Red Dragon
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Date: 11/20/13 5:13 PM

I'd be inclined to trace the lines for the next size down on the top and either pin or baste it in to see if that helps. While you are fitting it may be easier to sew it inside out so it is easier to pin as you go while it is on you.
The bottom looks to be a good fit, especially if you have moved the waist up to its correct spot.
With princess lines I tend to just take them in a smidge at a time to see if that helps with the fit; that is the beauty of working with them, you can adjust them to fit around your form, the same as you can with darts.
The neckline and armholes may be fine once you set in a sleeve and add facings (I presume its facings...) I have no advice on the back, mine is the polar opposite and I am forever widening mine.
Keep it up Dem' you are actually doing really well.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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In reply to Red Dragon <<


Date: 11/20/13 5:19 PM

Quote: Red Dragon
I'd be inclined to trace the lines for the next size down on the top and either pin or baste it in to see if that helps. While you are fitting it may be easier to sew it inside out so it is easier to pin as you go while it is on you.

The bottom looks to be a good fit, especially if you have moved the waist up to its correct spot.

With princess lines I tend to just take them in a smidge at a time to see if that helps with the fit; that is the beauty of working with them, you can adjust them to fit around your form, the same as you can with darts.

The neckline and armholes may be fine once you set in a sleeve and add facings (I presume its facings...) I have no advice on the back, mine is the polar opposite and I am forever widening mine.

Keep it up Dem' you are actually doing really well.

It's a vintage pattern so there is only this size in the envelope. Any adjustments I make have to be done without the guidance of multi-sized patterns, unfortunately.

Yes, this is a dress with facings. Also, I've never done sleeves on anything (nor princess seams, and this is my second invisible zipper), so I was trying to get the bodice right before I tackled sleeves. I guess that I need to get them in there in order to get a good idea of what else needs to be done.

Thank you for the advice and encouragement.

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

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