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Simplicity 2446
All the reviews sounded great. This is some sort of nightmare.
Maggiedoll
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Maggiedoll
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Date: 11/30/13 5:27 PM

I read the reviews. They seem good. Then I started trying to make this thing.

There. Are. No. Marked. Roll. Lines. At. All.
Not on the lapels.
Not on the collar.
Not on the under-collar.

And while this whole business with the dart right on the front by the notch apparently makes the collar do something more easily.. that in combination with the lack of roll lines is making the whole thing horrible.

I've been trying to follow the instructions in the Singer Sewing Reference Library Tailoring book. Which seems to assume that any remotely decent pattern will include marked roll lines.

I. Am. Going. Insane.

I was going to start a WIP to rant about it, but I took some pictures and when I attempted to move them from my camera to my computer, I discovered that my SD card is apparently borked. So it gets a thread. Because I want to yell and scream and throw things.

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KathleenS
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KathleenS  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/30/13 5:52 PM

How annoying. I hope one of the people who've made this pattern will see this and help you out. I'm afraid it's pretty rare for a modern pattern to have the roll line marked. I agree it would be good! I would probably figure it out by making a muslin and seeing where the collar naturally rolled back. I would guess that the dart you mention is at the end of the roll line, but of course I haven't seen it.

Good luck!

frame
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frame
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Date: 11/30/13 7:19 PM

I agree. I hated that this pattern didn't have a roll line marked, but it's actually not that difficult to create the roll line. I used a tip I found in one of Nancy Zieman's books. Sadly, I can't remember the specifics, but I will go look for it and post back. :)


ETA: From Sewing Express by Nancy Zieman (1994) page 31
In a text box Note from Nancy. "Extend a line from the top button mark to the center front edge and mark. Locate the notch at the neckline and fold the pattern along a line from the top button mark at the front edge to the neckline notch. This is the roll line."

So basically from the notch at the center front (on the lapel or neckline) to the top button mark at the front edge. Worked for me. I also made my own back neck facing, but I wish I hadn't.

I also had trouble with the collar/lapel area on this jacket, but I think it was my own doing. I did get a great fit with the princess seams, though. I don't think I ever hemmed this jacket. It's probably still hanging in the closet. I started to make it when I thought I needed a suit, but the opportunity passed before I got the jacket sewn.
-- Edited on 11/30/13 7:28 PM --

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Maggiedoll
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Maggiedoll
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In reply to KathleenS <<


Date: 11/30/13 7:21 PM

Quote: KathleenS
I agree it would be good! I would probably figure it out by making a muslin and seeing where the collar naturally rolled back. I would guess that the dart you mention is at the end of the roll line, but of course I haven't seen it.

*sigh* Nope. It goes up to the very corner, if it were connected to the roll line there'd be no stand in the collar at all.

I can't figure out what the heck the point is of this pattern. They make it with extra seam allowances for the express purpose of fitting. And then mark it so that you have to do a complete mockup ahead of time, or the entire thing makes no sense at all? That means that all the extra seam allowance actually does is get in the way and make it difficult-to-impossible to sew the curves properly.

I suppose that maybe it would sorta be working if I were following the pattern instructions. But they include none of the shaping that's supposed to be a rather important part of a tailored jacket.

This pattern seemed to have so much potential. But at this point all I loathe it. Just really, really, really loathe it. I'm not sure I remember the last time I was this frustrated by a pattern.

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My (overly complicated) blog: http://maggiedoll.com/

Maggiedoll
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Maggiedoll
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In reply to frame <<


Date: 12/1/13 1:17 PM

Quote: frame
So basically from the notch at the center front (on the lapel or neckline) to the top button mark at the front edge. Worked for me. I also made my own back neck facing, but I wish I hadn't.

I also had trouble with the collar/lapel area on this jacket, but I think it was my own doing. I did get a great fit with the princess seams, though. I don't think I ever hemmed this jacket. It's probably still hanging in the closet. I started to make it when I thought I needed a suit, but the opportunity passed before I got the jacket sewn. :winkgrin:

Oh thank you! I think this helps.

What is it that you did that made problems doing the collar and lapel? I think at this point I need every heads-up I can get!

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Adaire
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Date: 12/1/13 3:21 PM

I have occasionally run into a pattern like that. Years ago, I thought it was because I was an inferior human being, but now that I'm MUCH older, if I run into one that is just terrible, I just say "Oh well, #### happens, throw it away and buy another pattern from a different company. Then I start over with new fabric and a smile on my face and never look back. Life is far too short and uncertain to stress over a stupid pattern when there are other fish in the sea!

Adaire
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Date: 12/1/13 3:28 PM

I forgot to tell you that I have this pattern but have never made it (probably never would as one doesn't need many jackets in Florida) but after I read your posting, I unearthed it from the stash and threw it away in solidarity! Now, doesn't that make you feel better???

frame
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frame
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In reply to Maggiedoll <<


Date: 12/1/13 5:26 PM

Quote: Maggiedoll

What is it that you did that made problems doing the collar and lapel? I think at this point I need every heads-up I can get!

I think I followed the instructions. Haha! I'm not really sure any more because I haven't looked at it in awhile. I just remember wishing I had done it different. I was using a ravelly dark wool and between the thread and the fabric fibers I had some difficulty making a nice join at the collar and lapel. I couldn't see it well enough. That'll teach me to use such a dark fabric.
-- Edited on 12/1/13 5:28 PM --

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"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

Maggiedoll
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Maggiedoll
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In reply to Adaire <<
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Date: 12/1/13 10:03 PM

Quote: Adaire
if I run into one that is just terrible, I just say "Oh well, #### happens, throw it away and buy another pattern from a different company. Then I start over with new fabric and a smile on my face and never look back. Life is far too short and uncertain to stress over a stupid pattern when there are other fish in the sea!

I did look for other patterns! But I was after a classic blazer pattern with a notched collar, shoulder princess seams, and two-piece sleeves. There don't seem to be many fish matching that description.

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Elona
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In reply to Maggiedoll <<


Date: 12/1/13 10:54 PM

Burda and really old, OOP Vogue couturier patterns pretty much have the marked roll line thing cornered.

Sorry for your frustration, though.

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