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Forum > Patterns and Notions > My very first Jalie pattern ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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My very first Jalie pattern
Questions about sizes, stretch gauge
purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Arkansas USA
Member since 11/16/05
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Date: 12/10/13 10:28 AM

Good Morning,

I just bought my first Jalie pattern, #2804, and have a couple of questions.

About sizes: I’d like to make this top for my 15-year-old daughter who has a dancer’s body: average height (or a bit less), very slim with small hips and very small bust (doesn’t wear a bra), but long legs and arms. Her bust is 29.5, which makes her a Jalie N/O or 10/11-year-old, her waist is 24.5, Jalie N, and her hips are 33, Jalie P. Put differently, her measurements correspond to the European sizes (height measurements) of 146 to 155 cm. However, RTW clothes in those sizes are too skimpy for her. Which size should I pick? Do Jalie patterns run small, big? Of course, with all the inconsistency in dress sizes on the market, it’s anybody’s guess.

About the stretch guide: The pattern calls for a knit fabric with four-way, 40% stretch, “see stretching guide below.” I don’t see that guide. I am looking for something that says “a 5 inch piece of fabric should stretch from here to there,” but there is only a horizontal arrow without a start and end point. What am I missing?

I’d be grateful for your advice.
Thanks,
Claudia


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B
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Minnesota USA
Member since 12/5/03
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Date: 12/10/13 10:43 AM

Nice pattern!
Unless I am totally confused, the 40% stretch would mean 10 inches would stretch 4 inches, to 14 inches both ways.

(40 % of 4 inches would be 1.6 inches, is that the length of the arrow?
They often use 10 cm, or 4 inches, which works nicely if you go metric and make the arrow 4 cm.)
-- Edited on 12/10/13 10:47 AM --

------
Janome serger 634D, Brother PC6000, Singer 500A, Kenmore Mini-Ultra, vintage Bernina 600, White Rotary treadle, New Homestead A VS treadle

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to purplebouquet <<


Date: 12/10/13 11:03 AM



The best thing about multi sized patterns is that you can merge from one size to another as needed. You can easily add length to the torso and sleeves.

The knit guide is a bit different. I always use a doubled piece of fabric when checking for stretch. You want the ustretched piece of fabric to fit in the area to the left of the bold black arrow. Then you want it to stretch the length of the arrow to the end of the bold box and the tip of the arrow.

The sleeves on Jalie patterns can be a tight fit, but that may not be an issue for your daughter.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/10/13 11:12 AM

This pattern may have a good deal of negative ease, since it calls for a knit with 40% stretch. I think what I would do is measure the pattern itself and compare it to clothing she already has. You may have to morph between sizes, using one size for shoulders, arms and length and another for width, or use a size that works with her shoulders and arms and do a small bust alteration.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

Elsie14

Elsie14
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Date: 12/10/13 11:17 AM

The white box to the left of the arrow that has the text "Four-Way stretch required" is the length of the unstretched fabric, and the black box that contains the arrow is the amount it should stretch, i.e. stretch the fabric from the beginning of the arrow to it's point.

I've never made this pattern, but I've made the 2805 basic t-shirt many times for myself as well as the mens t-shirt for my husband and boys. Jalie patterns are very close fitting and the stretch/recovery of the fabric makes a big difference in what size to choose. I often use less stretchy all cotton fabric and just go up a couple of sizes. I actually have 3 different sizes traced off for myself and the size I use depends on the fabric.

One of the best ways to choose a size (that I learned here on PR) is to measure a similar item that fits well (or somewhat well and adjust based on changes you'd like to see) and then measure the actual pattern. Choose something with a similar fabric type/stretch and don't forget to take into account seam allowances.

HTH

Evatgirl73
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Evatgirl73
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Date: 12/10/13 11:30 AM

I seem to be in the minority, but I have found Jalie patterns to run a bit big. If I choose size based on measurements, I always end up having to take it in some for both myself and my tween girls. One of the leotard patterns ran very large, but ALL other Jalie patterns have run slightly large IMHO. I have sewn up several, I'm pretty sure I have sewn the one you're asking about but it was a long time ago. I would definitely check with a similar shirt that fits her well. Like someone else said, adding length is super easy. Good luck!

------
EvaSAHM to 2 beautiful girls, born Sept'01 and June'04!

purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Date: 12/11/13 10:41 AM

Thank you, all. Gee, I am feeling a bit dumb that I didn't catch the meaning of the arrow, but at least I know now.

Good suggestion also to compare some well fitting RTW tops to the pattern sizes to get an idea which one to pick.

Claudia

ASiverson
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ASiverson  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/11/13 11:33 AM

I have never sewn a Jalie pattern, but keep hearing that they are so great! So, I have added this pattern to my wish list. TFS!

------
Annette

cabinbaby
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Date: 12/12/13 2:10 PM

They are my favorite company! I find their sizing very accurate. My measurements are almost perfectly in the R range and that is what I make. Great fit every time!

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dawn
www.twoontwooff.blogspot.com

JUNIPERJUNE
JUNIPERJUNE  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/22/13 11:26 AM

The stretch is really about the stretch of the fabric. If it is not Very stretch knot I go up a size. If it stretches A LOT, you go down one size. This is mostly exclusively for Spandex materials. MOst are "as is". Just make sure you have a stretch that stretches.

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