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Fitting front to side front
UrbanFool
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Date: 1/3/14 7:05 PM

I haven't sewn a princess seamed garment in quite some time, and I've never used a pattern that had an actual D cup size.

My problem is that there is no way on God's green earth that these pieces (Front and side front) are going to fit together between the notches (At the bosom). With the very best of my magical fabric manipulation powers, I have a half-inch gap. The front piece is stay-stitched, so that could feasibly shorten that piece of fabric, but I don't think it would shorten it by that much.

I'm willing to cut out the side front piece for the C cup and see if that fits better, but it bothers me that I can't get the D cup to fit. My best guess would be to shirr the seam line of the side front to fit it in, but that is not in the instructions or the photo of the completed blouse. (And I really don't want that anyway.)

Any ideas? (Does this even make sense?)

------
Kelly

CM_Sews
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Date: 1/3/14 7:17 PM

Pattern number?

Are you matching seam lines and NOT the edges of the seam allowances?

This is a
video showing how to sew drunkards path quilt blocks without pins AND without lining up the seam allowance edges first. I've used this same basic technique to sew a garment seam (must have been a princess seam, but my memory is vague) with concave and convex seam lines that fit together.

Put the concave piece on the bottom, the convex piece on top, then lift the top piece in the air, and gently guide each piece with the appropriate hand as you stitch; note that each piece is guided in a different direction. The bottom piece is gently "pushed" to the left, and the top piece is gently guided to the right.

However, the length of the seam lines must match.

CMC

UrbanFool
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Date: 1/3/14 7:22 PM

My theory won't work because both the front and side front are specific to the cup size. They SHOULD fit.

It's this pattern McCall's 6035.

Yes, I'm matching the seam line. I've never had problems getting this seam together before (or sleeve caps for that matter), but it's been on a smaller cup size. Well, NO cup size.

Here are the pattern pieces


-- Edited on 1/3/14 7:27 PM --

------
Kelly

Kayseri
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Date: 1/3/14 7:33 PM

What I normally do is stay stitch at the seam line on both pieces, then clip to the seam lines. Then I can pin together matching the stitch lines, and the SA spreads out to suit.

When I'm being paranoid, before clipping, I measure the stay stitching on both pieces and make sure they match.

CM_Sews
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In reply to UrbanFool <<


Date: 1/3/14 7:42 PM

Quote: UrbanFool
My theory won't work because both the front and side front are specific to the cup size. They SHOULD fit.

It's this pattern McCall's 6035.

Yes, I'm matching the seam line. I've never had problems getting this seam together before (or sleeve caps for that matter), but it's been on a smaller cup size. Well, NO cup size.

You know, it's possible that the PATTERN is messed up, and NOT YOU. [I know I always think I'm the one who messed up, and sometimes it is not me!]

Try measuring the actual seam line lengths on both pattern pieces. You may need to draw where the seam line is on the pattern piece to get an accurate measurement. Then measure the seam lines on the cut fabric pieces, too. The fabric itself may be part of the problem.

If you traced, is it possible that you traced the wrong size on one piece? (I'm just trying to think of any possible reasons you are having problems.)

Fix It Idea: if you let the "over long" piece have a narrower seam allowance, can you get it to fit? Basically, just move the seam line over just 1/8-inch, which should make that seam line longer, then match seam lines. (It's your fabric, your thread, and your sewing machine so you can change the position of the seam line if you want to!)

I'm going to guess that 1/8-inch will not completely throw off the fit.

CMC

PattyE
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In reply to UrbanFool <<
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Date: 1/3/14 7:51 PM

They'll fit...you need to clip.
I start pinning from the middle of the area out...divide the fullness in half and pin, divide the fullness in half again and pin, keep going until it's all pinned and remember you are stitching 5/8" in.

GlButterfly

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Date: 1/3/14 9:26 PM

The larger section has traditionally been eased in to the smaller section,( between the notches.) Have they changed that? (I haven't sewn a princess seamed blouse in ages.)
-- Edited on 1/3/14 9:29 PM --

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

UrbanFool
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Date: 1/3/14 9:50 PM

Yes, I assumed easing. But this is not fitting without gathering. I'm guessing I'm going to have to start cutting body parts off of this pattern.

Thanks anyway you guys! I thought maybe there was something I was missing, but I don't think so. I suppose I could try again in the morning. (Sometimes things are entirely different if left to sit overnight.)

Well, the "front" is 7" between notches and the "side front" is 8 3/4" between the corresponding notches... on the seam line. That's with one of those curving rulers.


-- Edited on 1/3/14 9:54 PM --

------
Kelly

kayco
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Date: 1/3/14 11:46 PM

Are you sure you're measuring at the 5/8 seam allowance? Sometimes I forget 5/8 when I've been using non-big 4 for a while. With the curve Needed for a D cup there's going to be a big difference as the convex curve (front) is going to get 5/8 smaller while the concave curve (side). Is going to get bigger by 5/8. It could be the pattern, but I looked at reviews on this pattern and people seem to have had success with the larger cup sizes. Also double check that you got the right pieces for the view and cup size. I'd make a muslin of those 2 pieces, cut the seam allowances down to 3/8 and see how they ease. A smaller SA is easer to ease. Hope I'm not being insulting, just trying to draw from trials and troubles I've experienced. Sleeping on it is a good idea. I feel your pain, finally we have a few patterns that address cup size and you still have a problem.
-- Edited on 1/4/14 0:01 AM --

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Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
Cricket - Bernina Artista 730e - Steady, Smart and Sweet
Renee - Berina 1150MDA - My Tiny Dancer

UrbanFool
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Date: 1/3/14 11:57 PM

Luckily, this is a muslin. I'd be ripping my hair out if it was my dragonfly material. I marked out the 5/8" seam with a double tracing wheel just to make sure. I'll trim the seam allowance and try again. It can't hurt!

How in the world did you find reviews? When I finally found the pattern, it said there were no reviews.

------
Kelly

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