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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Deleting a Collar Stand

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Deleting a Collar Stand
Jalie Polo Shirt
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/7/14 3:53 AM

Hi, I'm making the Jalie 3137 Men's Polo shirts.

I notice that most men's RTW Polo Shirts don't have a collar stand. The Jalie pattern has a collar stand and I would like to make it without the stand.

I am thinking I will need to raise the neckline to retain the same fit.

Can anyone help?

thanks
Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Pamela R
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Pamela R  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/8/14 11:52 AM

I do not think that raising the neck is the solution, try looking at a ladies collar with and without a stand, and I think you will see that they are just a wider collar piece ( it is also a slightly different shape). In fact you could just enlarge a ladies one, or copy a men's RTW. Hope that makes sense.
Remember that the collar without the stand will need to be back from the folded edge of the shirt front, and it is placed on the CF instead.

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Pamela R <<


Date: 1/9/14 2:55 AM

Hi Pamela,

I found an old PR thread and the general suggestion was to make the collar deeper so that it rolls over properly - about collar depth + stand depth (finished) + seam allowances for neck edge. Then use the width of the lower collar stand as a guide, where it joins the neck edge, as to how wide the collar should be cut. Also the thread mentioned allowing for finishing at the CF and not at the folded edge.

I wouldn't mind sewing the collar stand, however, I'm using Jersey/rugby fabric and making several of these shirts. It seems a lot of work and time to get the stand looking really professionally finished in Jersey.

What do you think?

thanks

Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Pamela R
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 1/9/14 9:35 AM

I agree completely, plus it may look more like RTW.
For sure, I would not use Jersey to make a collar with a stand, as there is so much chance of stretching and you need to rely heavily on your interfacing to keep it neat.

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Pamela R <<


Date: 1/10/14 7:52 AM

Thanks for your opinion Pamela. I managed to do as above today and the result is great. It really looks RTW. There is a few things on my toile that I will change mainly in relation to the finish with twill at the neckline.

It seems that my DS has a sloping shoulder and I need to change the shoulder slope to match. (drag lines from armpit to tip of shoulder. I'm thinking to take off 1/2" from the shoulder cap area (shoulder seam) blending to neck edge. do you think that is a good starting point?

mean't to say that the draglines are from armpit to neckline.
Many thanks for your input
Sue
-- Edited on 1/10/14 8:05 AM --
-- Edited on 1/10/14 8:06 AM --

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Pamela R
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Posts: 519
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 1/11/14 11:51 AM

Yes, that sounds like a good starting point.

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