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what is meant by ease in the sleeve ??
confusion regarding sleeves of shirt patterns for women
cweetgal
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cweetgal
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Date: 1/15/14 6:20 AM

Hello PR members..
I hasve a question today and I hope most of the experienced seamstress here won't find it stupid. I made two button down fullsleeve shirt for women recently. I got confused while setting in the sleeve. The length of the sleeve cap was longer the armhole at the bodice. And the pattern's finished output does not have any gathers at the shoulder. The instructions say ease the sleeve into the armhole of the bodice. What does this mean. Please help what does ease here mean . why is the sleeve cap measure more than the armhole of the bodice?

------
I am a sewing buff!!

Datcat23
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Date: 1/15/14 6:35 AM

The sleeve cap measures more than the armhole, to allow ease of movement. There's probably a more complex answer than mine, but that is what I have always been told.

Now, easing the sleeve. Think about the seam itself. It isn't a flat seam, its curved. For a sleeve that is only a little bit bigger than the hole, pin the underarm section, pin the top notch in line with the shoulder seam, and then, having the body of the shirt on top, and the sleeve underneath, manipulate the fabric to line them both up, holding the arm hole curved as you do it. try to remember to not stretch the armhole or the sleeve as you do this.

If the sleeve is substantially bigger, run a short section of gathering stitch across the top of the sleeve inside the seam allowance. Pull up the gathering very slightly, and pin into place again, smoothing with the armhole seam curved rather than flat.

With both approaches, the sleeve will seem slightly gathered, but the seam line will be flat.

I hope that helps, and please remember, the only silly question, is the one you are too scared to ask. We were all learners once, and I think, we are all learners all the time, because there is always something new to learn. Best of luck.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Speech girl
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Date: 1/15/14 8:31 AM

Here are some links that may help.

I usually use the crowding or the "ease plus" method described in this Pattern review tip

Here is a blog post about easing a sleeve Gorgeous things blog post

Here (hopefully) is a link to a book page about easing sleeves. You may have to go back or forward a page or 2 . If the link doesn't work if you google "crowding sleeve" you should get a google books link to a page in "Power Sewing Step by Step" by Sandra Betzina that shows the technique. P. 149 or 150 -- Attempt to link to google books...
-- Edited on 1/15/14 8:34 AM --
-- Edited on 1/15/14 8:35 AM --

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

cweetgal
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In reply to Datcat23 <<


Date: 1/15/14 8:32 AM

Thanks so much for the reply DatCat23I am going to try out the tips you suggested.. It was a very annoying experience, after making up the entire shirt I realized this mismatch while setting in the sleeve. And since it was first time I initially thought I cut it out wrong. Thanks for clarifying.

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I am a sewing buff!!

cweetgal
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In reply to Speech girl <<
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Date: 1/15/14 8:40 AM

Wow ! The result of pinning method turned out with such a beautiful sleeve.. Thanks so much for linking it up here

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I am a sewing buff!!

MrsCharisma
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Date: 1/15/14 9:24 AM

I probably don't use that many pins, but as a beginner I've gotten pretty good about easing in my sleeves.

2 rows of basting stitches is a must
Gather the fabric then smooth it out, shaping it to well...look like a sleeve.
Pin. Pin. Pin.
Sew "in the circle" - meaning do not put the sleeve around the free arm of your machine.
Move slowly, taking care not to create puckers or gathers.
If you do get a pucker, you generally only need to undo the stitches in that general area, not the whole sleeve.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/15/14 10:16 AM

I have found using the "flat" method is much easier than sewing in the "round".

If the sleeve is not too full at the cap, I match and pin at the ends, center top and the notches then stitch with the fullest layer (sleeve) next to the feed dogs where they ease the sleeve into place.

Then seam the sleeve and the bodice.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge



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Date: 1/15/14 2:03 PM

I like to use both the double basting lines and lots of pins. I don't like the look of a sleeve sewn in the flat if it is woven. It works great for knit tops but on a woven top the set in sleeve gives a more tailored look. Sometimes, depending on the construction, a flat installation is the only way.

SewLibra
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Date: 1/16/14 1:37 AM

There are no stupid questions! I prefer to sew sleeves in flat, using pins, but I do not like gathered sleeve caps. I have broad shoulders for my size and don't wish to accentuate them. I cut the top of the sleeve cap to fit the armscye as demonstrated in my review Here.. Use the right arrows to continue from the magazine instructions.

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

wendyrb
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Date: 1/16/14 2:57 AM

I've started doing a combo of flat insertion sleeve and in-the-round. I flat set the sleeve cap between the single-front notch and the double-back notch. I use 2 rows of gathering stitches and tend to sew with no or few pins. My preference is to use my fingers and hands for control with the sleeve on top. I can encourage the sleeve curve and any fullness into the armhole with "ease plus"- putting my tall-man finger behind the presser foot to compact and ease in the sleeve cap into the armhole. After the cap part is set in, I close the body side seam and close the sleeve seam. Then I sew the sleeve into the armhole from the notch, thru the underarm seam and up the the other notch. The sleeve is now fully joined to the garment. Hope this is clear.

Before the actual stitching I make a sleeve mock up to test if the darn thing fits. It really burns me when I have a well set-in sleeve that is uncomfortable, unflattering or both. For my body, I do best with a sleeve cap that is tipped forward- meaning not the same shape front and back. I need more in back and less in front and different curves. If the cap height is too shallow for me I get drag lines and can't move comfortably. A test "muslin" sleeve helps me trouble shoot before cutting my fashion fabric. From practice and mess ups, I kinda know what to look for.

Most of what I've said here applies to wovens, with knits being more forgiving. Still, I want a knit sleeve back and front cap shaped differently- not identical.

And also, I try to get the bodice fit fully worked out without sleeves. When that's accomplished, I add the sleeves. Any quirks on the body fit will only be aggravated once the sleeve is set in. Then I find it confusing to diagnose where the problem is- the body fit or the sleeve. One can resort to knitting nice stretchy sweaters!

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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