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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Tips on evening out the hem on a full skirt, please! ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Tips on evening out the hem on a full skirt, please!
j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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Date: 1/16/14 11:03 AM

So, I'm a little ashamed I don't know the best way to do this alone, since I've been sewing for almost 2 decades, but this is a great place to ask these kinds of questions!

I'm currently making a dress with a 6 gore flared skirt, and I there's already been some very appreciable stretching along the seamlines, despite careful handling (dang drapey silk will do that). There's that to contend with, plus I'm sure additional bias stretch will occur after completing everything but the hem and hanging for the requisite 24 hours.

What is the best way to even out the hem? Do those do-hickeys that stand on the floor with the ruler that puff out chalk work well? In school, we always just crawled around on the floor and measured the hem while the garment was on our model...I don't have someone to crawl around on the floor for me. LOL

I don't have a sewing buddy, but I do have a dress form. However, my from doesn't have as much as I have in the bust, so I don't think it would hang the same as if it were on my body. Throw a bra on her and pad it up?

Any hints, tips or tricks? I know if anyone has them, you guys do! :)
-- Edited on 1/16/14 11:15 AM --

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Jess
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2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 98 1/8, Used: 126 3/8, Stashed: 57 3/4

Speech girl
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In reply to j Renee Design <<
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Date: 1/16/14 11:27 AM

Here's One method

This Excerpt Might help



And I know there is a way where you stand next to a table while wearing the skirt or dress, put a row of pins all the way around the garment at the table height and then measure down the desired length with a yardstick and mark that. I couldn't find a tutorial. I did find this 1922 ladies home journal which describes using a yardstick to mark a hip line and then measuring down from there.
-- Edited on 1/16/14 1:56 PM --

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Kim
formerly mikkim
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j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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In reply to Speech girl <<
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Date: 1/16/14 11:36 AM

Ooo that string-on-the-doorway method looks promising. Thank you for your suggestions!
-- Edited on 1/16/14 11:37 AM --

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Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 98 1/8, Used: 126 3/8, Stashed: 57 3/4

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/16/14 1:59 PM

It probably not hurt to pad out the dress form.

It may sound silly, but is the entire bottom line of the skirt suppose to be an even length from the floor?

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 1/16/14 2:04 PM

I may try padding it and see how it goes. Also, that's not a silly question; the hi-lo hem still seems to be hanging around!

Yes, it's all supposed to be parallel to the floor. What I have going on now are random bits that hang down way lower than they should here and there; definitely not a design feature! :)

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Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 98 1/8, Used: 126 3/8, Stashed: 57 3/4

Sunflowerblack
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Date: 1/17/14 0:19 AM

String on the doorway tip is genius.

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Tarrbaby
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Date: 1/17/14 7:08 AM

I have one of those skirt markers with the puff and yes I have had great success with it. Mi even use it to hem slacks. I set it 12 inches off the floor for my slacks, puff a mark then measure down 11 inches from the mark for a hem 1 inch off the floor. Also, if you have a dress form put your garment on it and crawl on the floor to measure.

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Dawn T.

ASiverson
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Date: 1/17/14 8:24 AM

I padded out my dress form and it works fine. I put an old bra of mine on her and then stuffed it until it was my size and firm so it wouldn't collapse. That was a few years ago and I haven't had to move it since.

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Annette

tourist
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Date: 1/17/14 12:56 PM

This question was posted not too long ago. I am not able to search right now, but it was within the past couple of months.

Do pad the dress form to within reasonable proximity to your size. Hang the dress on the form for at least a day. The bias will stretch all over the place and not necessarily in any way that seems logical!

I then put my dress form up on a table and work sitting on a chair (or the floor if I use the coffee table). Luckily I am short so Miss Mitzie fits on the kitchen table or cutting table. It also helps that she lacks a head.

I have a marking system made from a ruler stuck in styrofoam. Mark the hem, cut, then wait a day if you can and double check.

There is a full explanation on my blog. Doing a bunch of ballgowns with multiple under skirts made it necessary to have a system.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/17/14 1:20 PM

There is a dress designer on It's Sew Easy by the name of Gerty. She has a video showing two options she uses to mark an even hem.

One option is to mark a line on the door frame, then rotate the dress form and mark the dress according to the position on the door frame.

The second (one I like, since I no longer have a dress form) is to determine how long you want the skirt then lay the dress/skirt on a flat surface and use the tape measure to measure from the waist down to the predetermined length and mark.

You can watch her two part video here if you wish to do so.


-- Edited on 1/17/14 1:22 PM --

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

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