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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Fusible interfacing on fashion fabric or self fabric lining? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Fusible interfacing on fashion fabric or self fabric lining?
When to stick to what and WHY?
hoyhoy
hoyhoy
Member since 8/30/13
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Date: 1/18/14 10:35 AM

Hello you lovely people!

For the lil' white dress contest, i want to make Kay Unger's 1183 . I will line with self fabric. It i a medium weight knit with a slight stretch. The interfacing i bought has the same stretch more or less and is white.

I'm thankful for a great tip from a member to an earlier question of mine, that i should interface the lining, because it will try to pop out otherwise. My questions are:

1) when do i, generally, interface the outer, fashion fabric side, and when the inner side. And why.

2) Should my choice be influenced by the fact that i'm using self fabric for lining? And why?

3) I can see, since i'm working with white here, that the seem allowances a showing through slightly on the bodice. So i should probably grade the allowances to reduce bulk also. Is there a rule about grading interfacing?

Thank you for your wisdom, patience and inspiration!
Sabine

HanPanda
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Date: 1/18/14 10:40 AM

My understanding to your questions....
1. Generally most always interface the facing rather than the outer fabric. Interfacing can make the fabric stiffer, particularly when you're fusing it. By interfacing the inside/facing, you get the stiffness for support, but it doesn't affect the drape and hand of the fabric on the outside. Unless you have a specific reason for wanting to interface the outside, prettying much always want to do so on the facing.

2. It doesn't affect my decisions, someone else may say otherwise :)

3. Fusible? Generally you are supposed to trim off the seam allowance from fusible interfacing. That way there is no additional bulk added to the seam from the interfacing. Sew-in? Trim the interfacing by half if not more of your seam allowance. Again, you're trying to decrease the amount of interfacing within the seam as much as possible without putting the integrity of the interfacing at risk.

I hope this helps!!!!

------
2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 93 yards
Sewn: 57 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to hoyhoy <<
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Date: 1/18/14 11:26 AM

I agree with HanPanda. That is a cute dress and it has alot of structure to it. You might want to rethink using a medium weight stretchy knit and I would not use the self fabric for the lining. It sounds like it would be too heavy and that dress has alot of seams for a medium weight knit. Vogue recommends "Lightweight Double Knit, Crepe Back Satin, Shantung and Linen." I might add a poplin to that list which would be nice for summer. The lining should be a lighter weight usually than the fashion fabric. I do not interface the fashion fabric ever on a dress or top. I think the only time I would interface fashion fabric is on the waistband of a pair of pants. If you fuse interfacing to the fashion fabric it will show through and give a stiffness wherever you have fused the interfacing and you do not want that. I don't think I interface a dress if I am lining it unless I need a structure neckline. Your directions for the dress might give you some direction here. I usually only put interfacing on the facings on a top or dress and only on woven fabric. This is my opinion of course.

dscheidt

dscheidt
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Date: 1/18/14 10:34 PM

Quote: HanPanda

3. Fusible? Generally you are supposed to trim off the seam allowance from fusible interfacing. That way there is no additional bulk added to the seam from the interfacing.

Fusibles are added to make the garment more durable. Running them right up to a fold or seam doesn't accomplish that, and often makes things worse. The fold (as at a hem, etc) or steam is a stress point, and having an edge there will cause the garment to wear out there first, as the unfused part rubs against the edge of the fusing. If the additon of interfacing makes the seam too bulky, you're using the wrong sort.

Take apart some good quality RTW, and you'll see that fusing extends to an 1/8 or so of the edge, or all the way to the edge.
hoyhoy
hoyhoy
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Date: 1/19/14 2:42 AM

Thank you all, even though the topic states there are no stupid questions, i was apprehensive asking this one. Turnes out there are always slight (or big) differences in views. It is so helpful to see theme side by side so i can find out what works for me.

I think i will try to go for the 1/8th option, and fuse on the lining (AND understand wy, yey!). The comment about considering a different fabric got me thinking and browsing for knowledge about knits. So much to learn....

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 1/19/14 1:14 PM

It's interesting that ready to wear/manufacturing and custom/couture take two different approaches to fusible interfacing in collars:

Kathleen Fasanella, a RTW pattern maker writes that in production for RTW interfacing is cut 1/8" smaller than the fashion fabric, and the fusible is sewn into the seam.

Pam Erny, a custom shirtmaker, cuts her collar interfacing 1/4" smaller than the fashion fabric, and sews just at the edge of it.

Which is correct? Both, probably, depending on your circumstances and what you want to achieve. Like the differences in how Janet Pray and Kenneth King approach sewing jackets, which could hardly be more different!

------
Debbie

Rosalaya
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Date: 1/20/14 0:09 AM

Question. Is it still a 'self-fabric' if you actually buy a different fabric for the interfacing? .?

mmcp
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Date: 1/20/14 8:38 AM

Rosalaya, did you mean facing, rather than interfacing? "Self-fabric" refers to the lining, or the facing, rather than the interfacing. which is never made of the same material as the garment. If that's the case, then no, it's not "self-fabric" if it's a different fabric than the clothing.

stirwatersblue
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Date: 1/20/14 5:05 PM

Quote: hoyhoy
Thank you all, even though the topic states there are no stupid questions, i was apprehensive asking this one. Turns out there are always slight (or big) differences in views.

...And on that note, I almost always interface the fashion fabric, not the lining. To my thinking, interfacing is to add body or improve the drape of your fabric... which is not something I would normally want to do to lining, which should typically be lighter weight than the fashion fabric.

If I am adding stiffness to a lining, then I'm usually flatlining the garment, which is an additional interior layer that adds quite a bit more body and structure to the garment overall. In that case, I don't usually use any additional interfacing, but I do line the garment.

For facings, I agree with HanPanda: interface the facing, not the fashion fabric. (Facings are often made of self fabric, but they're not typically lined.)

Self fabric: Any part of the garment made from the same primary fashion fabric as the rest of the garment, but which is not one of the main outside pattern pieces: pocket interiors, binding, belts, lapel facings, etc. "Fashion fabric" refers to the main fabric of the garment, typically to distinguish it from your lining fabric.

------
~Gem in the prairie

hoyhoy
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Date: 2/13/14 6:48 PM

Hey helpers. Just wanted to let you know that i persevered and this is how it turned out. Thanks again!

LWD

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