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Tracing different size sections from a pattern
Mangosteen25
Mangosteen25
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Date: 1/21/14 0:21 AM

Does anyone have good links I can go to for information on tracing different sizes from my pattern. For example, if I am tracing a large to make it big enough for the bust but I only want a medium for the waist. I can trace off the pattern at the start using the different sizes can't I?

LauraTS
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Date: 1/21/14 0:28 AM

Sure, I do this all the time. You can trace both sizes and blend after tracing, or blend as you trace. The only thing to be consistent about is how/where you blend - I.e. if you're going between sizes on a bodice side seam, you've gotta blend in the same way on both the front and the back bodice pieces, or the seams won't match up when you go to sew them together. To check this, you can walk the seam line once it's traced, and make sure the front and back seam lines are the same length.

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Fictionfan
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Date: 1/21/14 1:50 AM

If you are just built with larger all around upper body than lower body, what you propose should be fine. The blending of sizes is pretty easy, just as you describe, though LauraTS makes a good point to check the length of the seamline for the front and back to be sure you can match them correctly. Also, make any overall length corrections before the width corrections. If you need to shorten or lengthen the garment, do that first, then blend the width sizes.

However, I wonder if you maybe need to do a full bust adjustment instead of starting with large on top and blending to the smaller size on the bottom. If you use the larger size to fit your circumference at the bust, but your back is narrower or your shoulders are smaller, maybe in proportion with your waist size, you would be better off, most of the time, to do a full bust adjustment. If you have more than 2 inches between the upper bust and full bust measurements, and your bra is a C cup or larger, you will usually get a better fit in the neck and shoulders with the FBA. If your bra cup is A/B and there is greater than 2 inches difference between high bust and full bust measurements, you probably have a broad back to account for the difference in sizes and that is the adjustment that should be done. These changes can be found in nearly any fitting book and in many of the message threads in several of the boards here on PR.

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Mangosteen25
Mangosteen25
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In reply to Fictionfan <<


Date: 1/21/14 6:19 AM

Thanks very much for the replies LauraTS and Fiction Fan. I have soooo much to learn. I have never adjusted patterns at tracing and know nothing at all about the scary sounding FBA! But I'm determined to have a go and learn loads more. I've been borrowing sewing books from the library and reading up and have a super dooper stack of patterns from op shops waiting and more from Burda Style that I want to make.

I have been sewing for a long time but not with formal patterns. More bags and applique and informal household things. But since I did a basic course on sewing with patterns I'm totally bitten by the bug.

I did make two of the girl dresses that I reviewed a while back but the rest are all hot off the sewing machine.

I'm determined to learn to fit clothes better to me. It would help a lot if I didn't write down completely wrong measurements the last time I checked myself! Going to have to retrace several patterns now . . . I have learned lots by jumping in and making mistakes. Sticking to cheaper fabrics for now while I'm learning so much. I still am finding most things are well wearable and I'm improving each time a little here and there.

frame
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In reply to Mangosteen25 <<
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Date: 1/21/14 7:21 AM

That was the entire purpose of multi-sized patterns. Laura gave great suggestions.

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SandiMacD
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Date: 1/22/14 1:19 AM

When you trace larger to smaller from top to bottom what you are doing is increasing tge upper bust area- mainly between the neckline to shoulders. It can tend to slip off the shoulders if you don't need that. It may also give you more ease in the upper back area. It will still give you only about a B cup fit in the front.

When you make a FBA (full bust adjustement) you are tracing the pattern lines for the upper bust size that fits you. This keeps the pattern's shoulder seams, armholes and upper back. Then you will slash areas to increase the bust cup size.

There are lots of resources on making FBA if you need them. Women with cups over B+ and sewing with wovens generally need to do a FBA. If using knits, you can often get away with tracing a larger size where needed or perhaps no pattern change.

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