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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > vest without collar adjustment

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vest without collar adjustment
Do I need to reduce the neckline if I don't do the collar?
croixmom
croixmom
Advanced Beginner
FL USA
Member since 5/14/10
Posts: 66
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Date: 1/21/14 12:44 PM

I am making this vest (McCalls M5252) view A


I am thinking of eliminating the collar though, to make the vest more versatile to layer under outer wear.

If I eliminate the collar, do I need to make the neckline smaller? How much smaller? How do I do that:

The pattern is for an unlined vest, but I plan to line the vest for extra warmth.
Thanks!
-- Edited on 1/21/14 12:47 PM --

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Quickie
NETHERLANDS
Member since 10/8/10
Posts: 593
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thumbsup 2 members like this.
Date: 1/21/14 4:58 PM

Perhaps a small mandarin collar?

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4529
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Date: 1/22/14 11:22 AM

I did this and just bound the edge with fleece.
By binding it, the neckline was a bit higher because the edge of the SA was now the neckline top. I used a method in one of Nancy Cornwall's books called 'fat piping'.
I also did the arms that way.
Be careful with lining, if the fleece is stretchy.
-- Edited on 1/22/14 11:23 AM --

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

croixmom
croixmom
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FL USA
Member since 5/14/10
Posts: 66
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 1/30/14 6:38 PM

Thank you both for your suggestions.

The vest will be lined, so right now I am thinking may reduce the SA. I guess I need one of those curvy things pattern drafters use to measure the circumference of the finished neckline.

The vest is for a priest. The vest neckline will need to allow for the Roman collar of his cassocků.. but I kind of like the idea of binding.

The shell fabric is a woven wool/cashmere blend. It does stretch some, as wool does. I am thinking of underlining the wool shell with silk organza. Would that work? I thought of underlining because the wool does give some, and also because I am putting some pockets in.

I am moving the pockets for the hands because the reviews on PR are pretty unanimous that the pockets in this pattern are lame.
So I am putting single welt pockets out closer to the side seams and I may go ahead and add zippers for those.

Then I am adding a large vertical/side entry pocket about 1.5 inches from the zipper front on the left side. The top will be about 6 inches above the waistline and the total length will be between 10-11 inches, to accommodate a small tablet. Since that pocket will definitely carry weight, that is the other reason I am thinking about underlining. But again, do I apply the fusible I/F over or under the underlining?

I am fusing around the pocket welts, but I wonder if I should do the underlining BEFORE applying the fusible interfacing, or after? Is the underlining a silly idea anyway?

I love PR!
Thank you for all your advice!

Dee Dee

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