SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Armhole Darts in Knit Fabric?

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Armhole Darts in Knit Fabric?
Pattern adjustments
shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 62
Send Message

      



Date: 1/27/14 6:24 PM

Hello Everyone,

I want to say how nice it has been to come on here and get such great answers on sewing dilemmas. This is my first post since I couldn't find an answer elsewhere on here.

I am trying to make a tank top pattern from my body measurements. Everything is fine except for the armhole/upper bust area. (It appears that a armhole dart would help, see image below).



I have read and watched Marcy Tilton's advice on adding an armhole dart for a t-shirt. But what I don't understand is how do you do this? I mean, she shows that an armhole dart is pinned together on the tissue pattern and she also inserts (I think) a 1/2" of length to the upper bust area. She says she adds that 1/2" to compensate for the 1/4" dart when folded makes it 1/2" total. Then the video ends and I am lost. (Her DVD is $40 and that is out of my price range.)

So, does she actually make a physical dart in the armhole or does she just leave the tissue as is folded and cut out the pattern?

If a dart has to be created how would I do that? Are there any visual instructions on how to do this? I have Nancy Zieman's book Fitting Finesse but it doesn't cover armhole darts.

Oh, I should mention that I wear a 34D hence the need for a dart. I have found even in t-shirts I always have extra fabric in the armhole area and tank tops never fit in the armhole!

Thanks for any help that you can offer. It is greatly appreciated.

Shelley

After putting this top together, it came out wonky in the armhole since I added a 2" dart. I don't know how to redraw the pattern to make the armhole normal again. I lost some of the curve. It is also too tight across the bust. (The back armhole fit fine so no adjustment was needed there.)

If anyone can guide me to a good source on armhole darts in patternmaking it would be greatly appreciated!

I like the clear elastic used around the neckline and armholes.


-- Edited on 1/29/14 2:56 PM --


-- Edited on 1/29/14 7:53 PM --

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

frame
star
frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3447
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 1/27/14 6:52 PM

Are you saying that you have gaping at your armhole and you want to sew a dart there to fix it?

If that's what you want to do, you can just fold out the fabric and sew the dart. I don't think I would do that, but it's hard to know exactly what you need to fix without seeing a picture.

If you want to transfer that armhole dart to a bust dart (probably what I would do), here's a good tutorial I found on how to do it.

Gaping Armhole fix

The only other thing that I can think of would be to adjust the shoulder line, but like I said it's hard to say without a visual.
-- Edited on 1/28/14 8:10 AM --

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 62
Send Message

      



In reply to frame <<


Date: 1/27/14 7:38 PM

Thank you Frame for the link to fix a gaping arm hole. I printed it out.

What Marcy Tilton says for t-shirts is that an armhole dart is preferred over a side dart. I don't know why but that is what she says in the video. Her video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeib6xlU5Pc is on fitting a t-shirt so she is using knit fabric.

I would think since I am trying to make a tank top that the dart should go in the armhole just like for a t-shirt since the knit has at least 50% stretch.

Do I need to draw in the dart on my sloper/block? Or should I just put the tank on and guess at the dart and sew it?

Also, would I need to do an adjustment to the back?

Thanks for your help.

Shelley

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

frame
star
frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3447
Send Message

      



In reply to shelleyjr <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/27/14 8:44 PM

I would pin out the dart on my garment and sew it (make sure you do the same thing to both sides), then transfer that dart to the pattern for future use. I wouldn't guess at it.

I have never seen an armhole dart in a t-shirt or a tank, but I don't go shopping for clothing very often.I'm not a follower or fan of the Tilton's so I haven't seen the video but I will go watch it now.

Do you have gaping in the back armhole also? If the gaping is all around, I think your armhole is too big and darts are not the answer. Have you tried pinning up the shoulder seam by pulling up the outside edge over the shoulder and blending down to the original seamline near the neck edge? In essence, the shoulder seam is a dart and taking up both the front and back would be like taking in a dart on both the front and back of the armhole. Of course, that may not help if you need a bust dart.

I am really just guessing here at a fix for you. Pictures are really handy and I'm sure others would have suggestions.


Edited to fix typo.

-- Edited on 1/27/14 8:53 PM --

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

frame
star
frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3447
Send Message

      



Date: 1/27/14 8:52 PM

OK, I watched the video. I would not approach this the same way she does, so I am afraid I won't be much help to you. Perhaps someone who follows this method can be more helpful and will answer your questions.

Sorry, I'm not able to be more helpful. Good luck.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 62
Send Message

      



In reply to frame <<


Date: 1/27/14 9:38 PM

Frame, you have been a tremendous help. I have never made any patterns for myself so this is new to me even though I have been sewing for over 40 years!

I am still in the pattern making mode but just laying it on my body I can already tell that the armhole is gaping. The back seems fine.

This is why I thought Marcy's method might be the better choice rather than a side darts.

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2176
Send Message

      



Date: 1/27/14 11:00 PM

What I've done is pin out the dart that appears n the armhole, and then rotate it to any other dart or make a new dart. You can also rotate it out at the shoulder, but i can't remember how right now! I've never seen an armhole dart in a knit, but if you don't mind it...

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

SandiMacD
star
SandiMacD  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2564
Send Message

      



Date: 1/28/14 2:24 AM

Are you trying to solve 2-3 problems? In other words do you have a gaping armhole in the front and in the back and need to increase the bust?
I would agree with the others. I'm not familiar with the Tilton method either.

If the entire upper armhole gaps, then you could pull excess from shoulder seam top edge.
If only the armhole front gaps and you need a hint more bust room then you could do the armhole dart.
If you need more bust room you could do a FBA/add a bust dart.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

goosegreen
starstarstar
goosegreen  Friend of PR
Advanced
New South Wales Australia
Member since 1/9/05
Posts: 2331
online now
Send Message

      
thumbsup 3 members like this.



Date: 1/28/14 6:12 AM

I usually have armhole gaps because of 2 reasons - I am short in the upper chest area plus I am hollow above the bust.

I take the gap out by shortening the pattern right across the chest (above the bust point). Usually I tuck out 2cm (that's about 3/4").

------
Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

Annette Wright
starstarstar
Annette Wright
Kansas USA
Member since 10/22/08
Posts: 1198
Send Message

      
thumbsup 2 members like this.



Date: 1/28/14 7:24 AM

I was going to say exactly what Goosegreen said. Try the tuck across the chest.

Or do the dart and have the end point at center front (your pivot point) and redraw your pattern.

If you are in the fabric already, take the dart. In a print you probably won't see it, and you can experiment and see how you like it.

T-shirts that don't have darts tend to have those little folds, it's kind of the way it is.

Oh, one other idea, since you are making a tank, can you just bind the armhole and pull it a little tighter at the area of the gaping? That might work well too.

------
Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Armhole Darts in Knit Fabric?

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics

Register

Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Register

Vogue Patterns 8191

photo
by: Cosso

Review
Sew Liberated Aida Top Pattern

Sew Liberated Aida Top Pattern

Buy Now
Sew Liberated Reading Pillow

Sew Liberated Reading Pillow

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.