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Forum > Fitting Woes > Thinking about FBAs ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Thinking about FBAs
Now that I've finally tried one...
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/28/14 12:10 PM

I spent many months cutting a 14 neck/shoulders and grading to a 16 for the extra bust width. Finally, on my S2255 top I did a proper FBA of 1/2". I was *almost* there.

I also did an FBA on my recent B5927 jacket. Again...almost but not quite enough room.

On the top, it was fine. I needed a smidge more space and was able to position my snaps in such a way to take care of it.

On the jacket I realized I needed more LENGTH to go over the bust vs circumference around the bust.

Is there a magical way (tongue in cheek) to know what *my* FBA should look like? I've read lots of different sites that give a HOW TO but none for really helping you figure out how much vertical and horizontal space to add.

and how to navigate the bust curve but then come back to the body after the bust?

I took my measurements again this weekend. I had at some point started telling myself my full bust was 39.5 but it isn't.

High bust is 36" (armpit crease to armpit crease is 13 7/8" so both of these point to a size 14 for neck/shoulders)
Full bust is 38.5"
Underbust is 32.5"

So do I need to add 2.5" to size 14's? I primarily wear fitted tops, not much flowy or loose fitting.

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/28/14 1:05 PM

Well, an FBA is a fullness alteration, which means you need both length and width to accommodate the curves. If you're doing it the "proper" way, you are adding width and length, which is why you need to true up the bottom in the final step.

Once you have added enough fullness to make the garment lay correctly over your bust, you can tackle how to fit the underbust. With a large difference between full bust and ribcage, it can be tricky to get a tailored fit. I have the same problem. Shaped darts are an option. I have found that I get a better result with waist darts that go much closer to the bust point than is typically recommended. It looks a little vintage but at least it's smooth. Princess seams are good too, and so much easier to fit.

------
Melanie

MrsCharisma
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Date: 1/28/14 1:32 PM

Ohhhh. You are right. I think I realized after the fact while reading that I missed the horizontal slash. That explains why my spreading was so difficult! Ha!

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

SouthernStitch
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
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Date: 1/28/14 3:52 PM

French darts are highly recommended too, for those who prefer a more fitted look yet need the FBA. Good luck!

------
Bernina 780, and 530
Juki TL2010
Babylock Evolution
Singer 403a

When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.

MrsCharisma
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Date: 1/28/14 4:39 PM

Are those the curvy darts?!

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 1/28/14 5:27 PM

They can be either curved or straight. They start a couple inches above your natural waist and point up toward your bust apex, ending some appropriate distance away from the actual apex.

Here is a photo (from some random blog), showing various dart rotation locations. You can see a French Dart and a Curved French Dart. (The blog author says this diagram is in FFRP)

Sketch of top with curved french dart

Sketch of jacket with straight french dart

A french dart will give you some shaping in the bodice area under the bust.

CMC

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 1/28/14 7:25 PM

Quote: CM_Sews

A french dart will give you some shaping in the bodice area under the bust.



CMC

Ah. Looking at the photos helps. To accommodate that 6+" difference between under bust and full bust. Got it.

Thanks for the links!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

SewLibra
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Date: 1/29/14 0:43 AM

This is helpful, as I have a 7" difference between FB and UB. I have all kinds of problems with FBAs. I have never tried a french dart, so thanks for the info.

Btw, do others measure themselves with bra and underwear on or not? I do because I will be wearing these underneath. I have always assumed patterns know this???

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

wendyrb
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Date: 1/29/14 3:24 AM

Check out this a post by our own Shams for the Uber Busty! Shams is great at fitting herself and a browse around on her blog Communing with Fabric will be very helpful. She's lost a lot, a lot of weight in the past year, but her slimmer proportion is still full busted. I'm just home from a school event and here's what I can come up with for now.

Quickly- I took several PR classes with Sarah Veblen on bodice fitting and she is terrific. I posted daily photos wearing my muslin and she replied very quickly with solid constructive observations and what to try. Mrs.Charisma, I can check one of her charts that answers one of your early questions about how much to add for the FBA. Sarah uses cup size to give the increments.

I also took the Jill Stern T-Shirt class here and she has some good pointers. You may not need this, but if doing a generous FBA, Jill says to do a smaller one first, get everything right and then do a 2nd FBA on that to keep things in good proportion. Apparently less distortion, but have yet to try that.

Most of all for improved fit- you need a bra that fits. Not as easy as one might think. I finally resorted to making 1; what a difference. I took a 1-day class with Monica Bravo and she completely knows her stuff.

HTH.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

EleanorSews
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In reply to SewLibra <<
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Date: 1/29/14 6:57 AM

Quote: SewLibra
This is helpful, as I have a 7" difference between FB and UB. I have all kinds of problems with FBAs. I have never tried a french dart, so thanks for the info.



Btw, do others measure themselves with bra and underwear on or not? I do because I will be wearing these underneath. I have always assumed patterns know this???

It's important to take measurements over whatever foundation garments you will typically be wearing under whatever your outer wear garment. Some people have different bras they wear for different occasions and need to account for any differences.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

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