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Need help figuring out this pattern
Confused about pattern pieces
violingirl84
violingirl84
Member since 12/4/13
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Date: 1/28/14 4:25 PM

I'm working on the mockup for Butterick 5935. The cutting layout looks like this. I'm using 45" fabric and making view A.

The lining is pretty much the same thing, minus piece 7 (back extension).

My confusion comes from cutting two layers of the main fabric. Is it two layers of 6 pieces + piece 7, or is it one layer of 12 pieces + piece 7? It doesn't make sense to me because the instructions have it like this: main fabric, interfacing, lining, boning, lining.

I've written out the instructions.

1. Working on a flat surface, pin interfacing to wrong side of each matching fabric section. Baste through all symbols and lines of construcion as shown, leaving both ends of the thread free for easy removal.

2. Staystitch side edges of middle front and front sections above waist.

3. Pin middle sections to front, clipping where necessary.

4. Staystitch single notched edge of side front above waist.

5. Pin side front to middle front, clipping where necessary.

6. Pin middle black to back. Stitch.

7. Pin front to back at sides. Stitch.

Prepare and stitch lining sections together in same manner as corset.

8. With right sides together, fold back extension along foldline, Stitch, leaving an opening as shown. Trim.

9. Turn extension right side out; press. Slipstitch opening,

10. On outside, pin back extension to right back lining section, having seamed edge along placement line. Stitch close to edge.

Steps 11 & 12 have to do with inserting boning.

13. With wrong sides together, pin lining to corset, matching seams. Baste raw edges, keeping extension free.

Steps 14-22 have to do with bias binding, and steps 23-25 have to do with inserting the eyelets.


ETA diagrams.
Steps 1-4, steps 5-7, steps 8-11.
-- Edited on 1/28/14 4:45 PM --

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/28/14 4:46 PM

Wilson81 made this same pattern and there is a review. Perhaps she can clear this up for you as the clip you posted looks like everything is laid on on folded fabric.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Leora
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Leora
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In reply to violingirl84 <<


Date: 1/28/14 4:50 PM

It is two layers of 6 pieces + piece 7. You can cut in one layer if your fabric requires you to. In the latter case you'll need to aware of the need of flipping your pattern piece over before you cut it a second time.

------
Leah

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http://www.journeytocouture.com

My idea of housework is to sweep the room with a glance.

violingirl84
violingirl84
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Date: 1/28/14 5:18 PM

Thanks Leora! I figured it was two layers, a layer of lining, a layer of boning, and then another lining layer, but I wanted to double check.

Leora
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Leora
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In reply to violingirl84 <<


Date: 1/28/14 5:24 PM

I'm sorry, I hope I'm not confusing this. Your garment will end up with one layer of main fabric. The cutting layout shows the most efficient way to cut the pieces twice so you have right side and left side pieces. You need two #4 in main fabric only... not four of #4 in main fabric.
-- Edited on 1/28/14 5:32 PM --

------
Leah

My blog:
http://www.journeytocouture.com

My idea of housework is to sweep the room with a glance.

violingirl84
violingirl84
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Date: 1/28/14 8:57 PM

Yeah, I got it. Once I started sewing everything, it became more obvious that the pieces mirror each other.

I'm stuck on step 6. There's a middle piece, and two pieces on each side. The side pieces are much shorter in length than the middle piece and I'm wondering if that is on purpose, or if I am supposed to make the longer piece match up with the shorter pieces. I know I didn't cut anything wrong, that's what the tissue pattern looks like.

This is what's going on.

Leora
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Leora
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In reply to violingirl84 <<


Date: 1/28/14 9:14 PM

I'm so glad.

For this step, it appears your #4 pieces should seam together in that position instead of the piece you've sewn there. Pick it apart. Put the two #4 pieces right sides together and sew there to create the middle back, then the piece you picked out might go on the other side of #4 but it is hard to tell from the pic.

------
Leah

My blog:
http://www.journeytocouture.com

My idea of housework is to sweep the room with a glance.

violingirl84
violingirl84
Member since 12/4/13
Posts: 6
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Date: 1/28/14 9:47 PM

Omg, I feel so dumb. You know what the problem was? I was looking at the diagram as if it were the WRONG side, when it's actually the RIGHT side. Whoops

Leora
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Leora
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In reply to violingirl84 <<


Date: 1/29/14 2:15 AM

Don't be so hard on yourself! Sewing is quite a puzzle to solve and every step of the way is full of decisions. Ask questions, many questions. Some you'll answer yourself and some you'll need to find the answer to. Just go slow and work it through, one way or the other it will come together.

------
Leah

My blog:
http://www.journeytocouture.com

My idea of housework is to sweep the room with a glance.

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