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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > What are your favorite seam finishes? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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What are your favorite seam finishes?
Dana Cetz
Dana Cetz  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/29/14 2:58 AM

Please tell me your go to seam finishes for the following fabrics:

sheers
slippery silkies
knits
wovens
lame (I like it I cant help it)

Thank you. Looking forward to reading your posts.

westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/29/14 5:21 AM

For sheers and other lightweight fabrics I like to do French seams. Knits I generally use my overlocker to sew them, so the construction and seam finishing is all done in one. With wovens it depends on what I am making, the fabric and how visible the seam is going to be. The seam finish I think is prettiest but which is also quite time consuming is Hong Kong seam finishing. I've done that on some unlined jackets and I love how it looks when it's done.
-- Edited on 1/29/14 5:26 AM --

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MrsCharisma
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Date: 1/29/14 9:57 AM

I haven't sewn with sheer fabrics or much with slippery fabrics. For very lightweight wovens I use French seams and imagine I'd do so for a sheer/slippery fabric.

For knits, I too construct completely on my serger except for hems.

Wovens. Serger. I did make a skirt out of moleskin that I finished with bias tape. Took forever but it is SO fun to peek inside the (navy) skirt and see hot pink! :)

I've never sewn with lame :)

I'm not a purist. Serger. Serger. Serger as much as I can use it! LOL!!!

But when I made my most recent jacket I left all of the seam allowances at 5/8" and pressed open for example...no finishes at all.

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Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Levone
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Levone  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/29/14 11:16 AM

I've really only sewn with knits mainly and mid to heavy weight wovens. Maybe a few silky type wovens a long time ago.
Anyhow, I've only finished with my serger (or zigzag or pinking shears years ago before I got my serger). I'm lazy, LOL.

However, I do plan to experiment more with different seam finishes, that's one of my goals for the year. I'm thinking of trying out Hong Kong finishing on a unlined jacket I have in the queue. I think it looks really nice on some jackets that I have seen.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/29/14 1:32 PM

I use French seams with most things, especially sheers or anything that frays a lot. I also use them on things that will see a lot of washing even if they're a tad bulky, like my kids pjs and play clothes. I also like to use flat-felled seams on casual stuff that sees a lot of wear. I also bind seams or use a Hong Kong finish on bulky, unlined stuff like jackets.

I don't work with knits, though I'm planning to change that this year.

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Melanie

minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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In reply to westmoon <<
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Date: 1/29/14 3:04 PM

Quote: westmoon
For sheers and other lightweight fabrics I like to do French seams. Knits I generally use my overlocker to sew them, so the construction and seam finishing is all done in one. With wovens it depends on what I am making, the fabric and how visible the seam is going to be. The seam finish I think is prettiest but which is also quite time consuming is Hong Kong seam finishing. I've done that on some unlined jackets and I love how it looks when it's done.
-- Edited on 1/29/14 5:26 AM --

I pretty much do exactly these techniques, with the addition of pinked or serged seams for wovens that are going to be lined. I just re-discovered the joys of using pinked shears when I finally got a pair that didn't hurt my hand, and now I am using them whenever it's appropriate for the fabric.

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Dana Cetz
Dana Cetz  Friend of PR
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 1/29/14 3:28 PM

Please tell me what brand of pinking shears it is that you bought.

How did the other one hurt your hand?

dmh1
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<
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Date: 1/29/14 3:31 PM

I like hug snug seam binding for woven fabrics when I'm omitting a lining and I want the inside to look nicer than a serger can accomplish. Wawak sells it for a very reasonable price (I'm not affiliated with Wawak, I just buy a lot of things from them)

hug snug at wawak

minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<


Date: 1/29/14 3:42 PM

Dana-

My first pair of pinking shears were all metal Ginghers. I have very small hands (I wear ski gloves fit for 5 to 7 year olds!! LOL!), and the metal handles on that pair always dug into the metacarpal bone on my thumb. I didn't use those scissors for a very long time. When I saw Kai pinking shears on sale from Wawak, I bought a pair. The plastic grip on my Kais are a much better fit on my hands. They're also lighter. I have other Kai shears in my notions collections and overall prefer that brand over my Ginghers.

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minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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In reply to dmh1 <<


Date: 1/29/14 3:43 PM

I forgot about rayon seam binding, yes, this is also another favorite technique of mine! Don't worry, you're not the only Wawak addict on these boards.

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I'm finally a blogger!
sewming.blogspot.com

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