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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Adding seam allowance to princess seamline

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Adding seam allowance to princess seamline
rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 1/30/14 10:45 PM

Hi everyone!

I have a pattern drafting question for you. When I add seam allowance to a princess seam line coming out of the armhole, the cutting lines are unequal lengths. Due to the curved line, the cutting line on the concave side of the curve is shorter than the cutting line on the convex side of the curve. How do you deal with that? In this case, the stitching lines match each other perfectly, but in a pattern with seam allowance, when someone puts the pieces together, it appears as if they don't match each other in length. Is there a way to true the cutting lines so that they match up without skewing the stitching lines? Thank you!
PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
Member since 12/3/06
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In reply to rmomontreal
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Date: 1/31/14 10:37 AM

This would be normal as the longer piece is eased into place to create the curve in the seamline when the notches and each end it matched.

Stitch with the large piece next to the feed dogs (think "baggy bottoms" to remember the longer, fuller piece is on the bottom).

There is a demo for easing the princess seams by Angela Wolf at It's Sew Easy TV.

It's Sew Easy. Join or log in. Select "Projects and What's On Our Show", then go to series 600.



-- Edited on 1/31/14 10:42 AM --

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth. If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basketball Coach

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/31/14 3:32 PM

Only the stitching lines have to match because that's where you are sewing. It doesn't matter where you cut. The smaller the seam allowance in this case, the better, so you don't have all the extra fabric getting in the way.
Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to rmomontreal

Date: 1/31/14 3:39 PM

You need to match the seamlines, not the cut edges. If you use an awl to mark the intersections of the seams on both pieces you can match them perfectly.
Sometimes the side seam will be longer than the center front piece, in which case you would ease the side seam to front.

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rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 1/31/14 5:00 PM

Thank you for your help! I figured it was normal, but when I buy a commercial pattern it seems to me that the cutting lines always match up. Or maybe it just seems like they do because the matching notches/easing? I really appreciate the help!
PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 8680
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to rmomontreal

Date: 1/31/14 5:09 PM

A princess line is suppose to mold the body's curves (bust in particular).

If you look at a sleeve cap, it too has to be eased into place as the top of the arm curves at the shoulder.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth. If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basketball Coach

rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to PattiAnnJ

Date: 1/31/14 5:09 PM

PattiAnn- I signed in and found the link to Angela Wolf's princess seam video, but when I click on it I only find a one-page PDF document, and can't seem to find the video anywhere. Is there a video that goes with it?
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