SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

PR Weekend Los Angeles

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Adding seam allowance to princess seamline

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Adding seam allowance to princess seamline
rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 1/30/14 10:45 PM

Hi everyone!

I have a pattern drafting question for you. When I add seam allowance to a princess seam line coming out of the armhole, the cutting lines are unequal lengths. Due to the curved line, the cutting line on the concave side of the curve is shorter than the cutting line on the convex side of the curve. How do you deal with that? In this case, the stitching lines match each other perfectly, but in a pattern with seam allowance, when someone puts the pieces together, it appears as if they don't match each other in length. Is there a way to true the cutting lines so that they match up without skewing the stitching lines? Thank you!

PattiAnnJ
star
PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 7946
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



In reply to rmomontreal <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/31/14 10:37 AM

This would be normal as the longer piece is eased into place to create the curve in the seamline when the notches and each end it matched.

Stitch with the large piece next to the feed dogs (think "baggy bottoms" to remember the longer, fuller piece is on the bottom).

There is a demo for easing the princess seams by Angela Wolf at It's Sew Easy TV.

It's Sew Easy. Join or log in. Select "Projects and What's On Our Show", then go to series 600.



-- Edited on 1/31/14 10:42 AM --

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth? If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basket Ball Coach

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 672
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

      



Date: 1/31/14 3:32 PM

Only the stitching lines have to match because that's where you are sewing. It doesn't matter where you cut. The smaller the seam allowance in this case, the better, so you don't have all the extra fabric getting in the way.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8589
Skill: Advanced
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to rmomontreal <<


Date: 1/31/14 3:39 PM

You need to match the seamlines, not the cut edges. If you use an awl to mark the intersections of the seams on both pieces you can match them perfectly.
Sometimes the side seam will be longer than the center front piece, in which case you would ease the side seam to front.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 1/31/14 5:00 PM

Thank you for your help! I figured it was normal, but when I buy a commercial pattern it seems to me that the cutting lines always match up. Or maybe it just seems like they do because the matching notches/easing? I really appreciate the help!

PattiAnnJ
star
PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 7946
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



In reply to rmomontreal <<


Date: 1/31/14 5:09 PM

A princess line is suppose to mold the body's curves (bust in particular).

If you look at a sleeve cap, it too has to be eased into place as the top of the arm curves at the shoulder.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth? If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basket Ball Coach

rmomontreal
rmomontreal
Quebec CANADA
Member since 5/28/13
Posts: 12
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 1/31/14 5:09 PM

PattiAnn- I signed in and found the link to Angela Wolf's princess seam video, but when I click on it I only find a one-page PDF document, and can't seem to find the video anywhere. Is there a video that goes with it?

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Adding seam allowance to princess seamline

Merchants on PR

boutiquefabric.com


High end fashion fabrics
Deals!

Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover


Made In Australia
Deals!

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Historical Patterns
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Altering Pants
Altering Pants

Class Details

Online Class
Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Class Details

Decades of Style 3009

photo
by: Sew Good

Review
McCall's 6996

photo
by: JustineSew...

Review
Paradiso Designs Tiny Handbag Pattern

Paradiso Designs Tiny Handbag Pattern

Pattern Details
PerfectFuse Medium Black

PerfectFuse Medium Black

Pattern Details

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2015 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.