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How to lower the armhole?
on an armhole princess bodice
Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/31/14 1:44 PM

Just finished a basic bodice fitting class and successfully modified the shoulder princess seam (View A) of McCall's 6076. While I'm into adjusting patterns, I'm also modifying the two pieces for View B, the armhole princess seam -- and can use the same already adjusted back, facing, and collar for two different views. W00T.

But I'm not sure how to lower the armhole 1/2" on a princess seam bodice, which breaks up the armscye. I've searched in books and online but haven't found a method with pictures to follow. Can anyone help?

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 1/31/14 2:41 PM

If I wanted the underneath my arm, part of an armhole lower by 1/2 an inch, I would just cut it so, on the under the arm there, or even take a larger seam allowance right there.

So it does not matter to me, if the bodice has princess seams in it or not really. As it's all the same thing, once you got a front and a back bodice sewn together at the shoulder seams and the side seams, as you still really do have a arm hole in there anyways.

If you want an arm hole to be a little bit bigger and lower under your arm though, then don't forget you still need to be able to attach a sleeve there or put a facing on it or whatever, so that might change those things too.

I don't know where on the internet you would find something like that, if you want pictures, but if you even go to the Public library instead, they are all still filled with a lot of real sewing books.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/31/14 2:56 PM

I've never done this with an armhole princess but I can visualize how it would add a couple steps. What I would do would be to pin/tape the two bodice pieces together (overlapping the seam allowance or cutting it off temporarily), treat them as one and lower the armhole as beauturbo suggests, then once you've got the other adjustments done, separate the two pieces and true/put back the seam allowances. That's probably as clear as mud but I think once you start the process it would make sense when it's in front of you.

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Sewandwrite
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Date: 1/31/14 3:24 PM

Yikes! I've done this backwards. I need to RAISE the armhole. My sincere apologies.
-- Edited on 1/31/14 3:30 PM --

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