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Getting the Back to fit
How to know what adjustment I need?
Kathleen127
Kathleen127
Beginner
KS USA
Member since 2/1/14
Posts: 2
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Date: 2/1/14 9:37 PM

Hello:

I need some help getting the back of my shirt patterns to fit correctly. I am a little afraid I don't know exactly what to ask for help.

I made two knit tops recently from the Big 4 patterns. They fit fairly well but there is a ton of excess fabric in the back. It looks like the shirt is twice as big as it needs to be from the back. The front fits pretty well.

I do have a large bust and tend to carry my extra weight in my belly so I think that's part of the problem. I didn't do a FBA and just graded out the top for the first pattern. The second pattern was a "pick your cup size" pattern. I used the finished measurements to try to pick the right sizes since I know the big 4 have an insane amount of ease.

Is this a swayback adjustment I keep hearing about? Do I just grade down the back pattern piece? How do I keep my side seams straight? (On one shirt, one side seam is perfect and the other is slanted towards the front.) Or is the side seam a completely different issue?

Thank you in advance for any help or pointers you can give. I'm just a bit stumped. I stopped sewing my clothes in high school because of fit issues but I really want to figure it out this time around.

-Kathleen

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NV USA
Member since 7/1/07
Posts: 1123
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In reply to Kathleen127 <<
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Date: 2/1/14 10:27 PM

Pictures would be very helpful if you could post them. Have you been starting with a pattern based on your upper bust measurement?
Another idea would be to measure your back & choose the size that most closely matches, then adjust to fit front at seams.

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 12/2/08
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Date: 2/2/14 1:33 AM

I agree with Julia C, it's difficult to help without a photo to see exactly where the problems are. But you are right, the Big 4 have tons of ease.

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

Kathleen127
Kathleen127
Beginner
KS USA
Member since 2/1/14
Posts: 2
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Date: 2/2/14 11:34 AM

Yes, of course that would help a ton! My husband has the camera out for a trip this weekend but I will try to post pictures soon.

I never thought about treating the adjustments for the front and back differently. Now that you mention it, it makes sense.

I will post pictures soon! Thank you for the help!

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8206
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In reply to Kathleen127 <<


Date: 2/2/14 11:54 AM

If you have a large bust and are picking your pattern size by your bust size the tops are going to be too big in the back, and chances are that your front is going to hike up because an fba adds both width and length.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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