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Tailoring
Where do you use interlining
Idosew
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Idosew
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NY USA
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Date: 2/8/14 8:09 PM

I am in the planning stages of sewing a hunt coat for my equestrian daughter. I have read that interlining is recommended. I'm not clear on which pattern pieces should be interlined. Just the "body" (front, side front, back, side back), the sleeve and undersleeve too? The front facing? I have separate pattern pieces for interfacing the back, side back, and side front and I will use hair canvas for that as well as the hems. Thanks for your insight!

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/9/14 0:57 AM

I would interline all the front pieces, back pieces, side pieces and sleeve pieces. Interlining (or lining) the sleeves will make it easier to slip on and off. Normally you don't have to interline facing pieces, though your instructions will problably have you interface them. I use very light interfacing to avoid undue stiffness, but it's whatever you prefer.

Interlining as opposed to lining can be done very quickly, since you are essentially sewing the fabric and lining as one piece. However, there are more layers to sew at once and if slippage occurs you may need to adjust your presser foot pressure or use a walking foot.

This coat sounds interesting. Please post a review when you are done! :-)
-- Edited on 2/9/14 0:59 AM --
-- Edited on 2/10/14 2:21 PM --

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

MaryDB
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MaryDB  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/9/14 6:29 AM

I usually call it underlining, so I hope we're talking about the same thing.

I like to underline the whole jacket. What I use depends on the fashion fabric. One hunt coat I made was from heavy wool melton, and I underlined with silk gazar. One was made from lightweight wool twill, and I used a fusible (wish I'd used a heavier fusible for better body). On other jackets I've made, I've underlined in silk organza and various fusibles.

I would always underline the sleeves of a hunt coat because they are often worn with a bent elbow, and I think it helps prevent creases there.

I usually only use hair canvas for the front facings, lapels, and hems. I like to use fusible hymo (I can pretend it's real hair canvas), and double-up on it at the lapels. If you are padstitching, then you would want real hair canvas. I think I would find hair canvas to be too heavy to use for the body of the jacket.

Your best bet is to sample different combinations of underlining with the fabric and see which seems to give you the hand you want.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

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