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Rolled / Narrow Hem Tips
Techniques to help make a better hem
Maddie964
Maddie964
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Date: 2/9/14 2:41 PM

I just finished a dress that had a narrow hem at the sweep of the skirt. Because the fabric was medium weight, the height of the hem was around 3/16" (1/8" wasn't possible and 1/4" it would have been too much). The silhouette of the dress was a bodice and skirt with a waist seam. The bottom opening measured 45" flat, which meant it had quite a bit of flare, and the skirt was paneled (I slashed and opened, and lengthened my skirt sloper to create the pattern), and all seams were french. For a visual, below is a link to a similar style dress (minus the sleeves):

http://www.freepeople.com/clothes-dresses/first-kiss-print-maxi-dress/_/PRODUCTOPTIONIDS/1E298FA5-BBCE-4AC8-A5D7-B413F708CF7E/

Now, I had a trouble with the hem. I used an 1/8" rolled hem to make the first pass, but when I got to a seam, it wouldn't go through. So, when I got close to a seam, I sewed off and then picked back up again right after the seam. For the second pass, I used an edge foot to turn up the hem once more, and I planned to manually turn the bottom edge twice when I got to the seams. Let's just say it didn't turn out as neat as I liked. Not a complete mess, but it's definitely not clean. I see myself using this type of hem in the future, so I was to get better at it.

So, my question is... does anyone have tips for making a narrow hem on fabrics that aren't as light as chiffon (i.e. lightweight cotton, silk, rayon, etc). How to do you go about getting the seam through the roller hem foot. Or, am I doing this completely wrong?

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Maddie
www.madalynne.com

Speech girl
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Date: 2/9/14 2:49 PM

Now I use my serger for rolled hems, but when I did use the sewing machine's rolled hem foot I did the hems before sewing the seams. There are also different size feet, some may work better for different fabrics. As an alternative, there is a hand sewn rolled hem.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 2/9/14 3:38 PM

I would trim the seams at an angle (V) glue stitch the edges in place and when dry, commence the hemming.

Practice a bit with scraps of the fashion fabric.


-- Edited on 2/9/14 3:39 PM --

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

beauturbo
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Date: 2/9/14 11:19 PM

I don't think a rolled hem hem foot, goes over a big bump (and also more like several layers of fabric there, like a french seam would even have) all that very well at all. Just since it would probably be getting bigger and thicker there (in just fabric) than the channel even cut out from under the rolled hem foot at that point when folded that way right there, but I guess if you want to make it try to do that, the flatter it was pressed with an iron, and maybe not only just ironed down but also a little hand basting in it just there to keep it folded to the side just right while trying to do that, would be better than not doing that at all.
-- Edited on 2/9/14 11:56 PM --

Maddie964
Maddie964
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Date: 2/10/14 8:08 AM

Thanks everyone!

As for hemming before sewing the skirt panels together - would that be practical, considering there are 6 pieces?

As for the glue - this is a clever trick! Would you glue it down, and then hold it until it dries? Do you recommend any type of glue?

------
Maddie
www.madalynne.com

HanPanda
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Date: 2/10/14 8:39 AM

I do rolled hems for a huge majority of what I make to be quite honest. I use my regular foot or my narrow hem foot. Then I don't have to worry about it getting stuck in the channel on the foot. I fold and pin very carefully. If I still think I may have a problem with everything staying in place or with the thickness of the fabric, I will fold the hem once, stitch in place. Then I can trim if necessary. After pressing, I Fold again, and sew the final hem. This workd especially well with flared and circle skirts.

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2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!!
In: 90 yards
Sewn: 46.5 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to Maddie964 <<


Date: 2/10/14 11:32 AM

I prefer Aleene' s Tacky glue sticks. Keep the cap tightly closed when not in use and they outlast any other brand.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge



Member since 12/31/69
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In reply to Maddie964 <<


Date: 2/14/14 8:11 PM

Try this:

Kenneth King tiny hem

Julkane
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In reply to 0 <<


Date: 2/15/14 8:41 AM

Quote: bunnypn
Try this:



Kenneth King tiny hem

Thanks for the link.

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Elna Excellence 740, Pfaff Quilt expression 4.0, Janome 300E, Brother 8500D, Babylock Ellageo, Janome 900CPX CoverPro, Brother 5234 Project Runway Serger, Singer Treadle, Singer 66, Singer 99

http://juliannasjourney.blogspot.com/

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