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What stitch to use on fold over elastic?
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SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/11/14 11:50 PM

I just got done watching Youtube tutorials about sewing fold over elastic. I am making T-shirts and want to try out my FOE on the neckline of one of them. The instructions say to use a narrow medium length zig zag. One on Youtube used a 3-point zig zag, and yet another used a very short straight stitch. So what is the best stitch, the length and width, and how much do you stretch the FOE for a T-shirt neckline to make it nice and smooth, but flat to the chest? Any tips are appreciated!

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

Datcat23
Datcat23
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Date: 2/12/14 0:04 AM

I always used 3 step zig zag when attaching FOE to nappies, as I felt it was more secure. As for pulling .... with nappies you are told to pull to about 80% stretch for the leg openings, and about 20% stretch for the rest of the nappy. I am not sure for necklines, but I would assume that you may need to experiment a while to get the right proportions.

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the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

wendyrb
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 2/12/14 0:24 AM

I've used FOE on wrap neckllines, not a T-shirt. I suggest that you make a mock up of your actual neckline from the pattern; cut it short, say trim across front and back bodice at the sleeve notches. Then you can test the real neckline curves and see what happens as you enclose with FOE.

My best results were using a small zig-zag for both length and width. I had to play around to get a look I liked and did the sampling route I suggested. I watched the tutorials and they do it all in 1 shot. Never got good results when I did that. Maybe with practice I could?

Here's what I did and up front I'll say- I can't do things like this quickly with a good looking result. For the 1st pass I used a slightly contrast thread in a large-ish zig-zag. I think of it as a basting with looser tension to hold the first side down on the back. Then I folded to the front and top stitched thru all layers with a narrow zig-zag in matching thread. It's been awhile and I don't remember exact settings. To finish, I pulled out the initial zig zag and the slightly different color made it easier to see. If some of it was stuck under the final stitching, the color was close enough to not be noticeable and it was on the back. It's a beautiful finish. I used a lustrous black FOE on a dark purple matte jersey wrap dress; it was dressy enough to wear to a wedding. I'm curious to read what other people do to set FOE.

Oh, about stretching- I tend to stretch more in a steeper part of the curve and less where the neckline straightens out. If you haven't seen this video Sarah Veblen's neck binding for T-shirts, it will give you great pointers. The principles work for FOE too. Good luck!

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

SewLibra
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 2/12/14 1:06 AM

Wendyrb, thank you for all the suggestions! Last week I made this SBCC tee, and it looks nice enough, but as per my review I rated it "Ok, but did not work for me." But I loved the instructions for the neck band insertion before sewing the second shoulder seam. It's easier than sewing in the round. However, I did not stretch quite enough because the neck trim falls forward a little bit right in the chest area Here.

With fold over elastic, I wonder if I can do it with these same instructions. I saw one tutorial where they sewed one side of the FOE, then a second stitching on the right side like you described. Others just folded it over the edge, didn't even pin it, and sewed a couple of inches at a time. Looks like I will have to experiment with it. Thank you for the good luck wishes!

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

wendyrb
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 2/12/14 2:13 AM

I saw your review for the SBCC T-shirt and thought maybe you were too hard on yourself. I'd say you came pretty close with your pink top despite it not being your favorite. You only know about the fit once to you commit to cut and sew the actual fabric. I will say the sleeve proportion was kinda surprising- much too loose on you for a fitted T-shirt. Your post here of the neckline looks good!

Agree the method to finish the neck first, then sew the 2nd shoulder is easier than in-the-round. When in-the-round works it's a great looking and comfy neckline.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

diane s
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Date: 2/12/14 2:16 AM

If it's a scoop neck that doesn't need to stretch I use a straight stitch, other wise I like a narrow zigzag.
I had bad luck applying it with the 2 step method, the second round of stitching stretched it out, I prefer doing it at at once. The first few times I was really nervous and use an adjustable bias binder. It works great for foe, but I don't need it anymore.
I use a 3 step zigzag for diaper covers and crafts.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

dmh1
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Date: 2/12/14 7:18 AM

I just used FOE for the first time this past weekend and got great results using a generic binding foot (like this ). I sewed a camisole and used FOE on the neckline and around the arms and with this attachment was able to sew everything in one pass using a narrow zig zag. I just kept the elastic taut as it went through the binder foot and it turned out great.

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Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

SewLibra
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In reply to dmh1 <<


Date: 2/12/14 3:14 PM

That looks like a handy foot and it would work on my Brother. Inexpensive too! I'll compare with the Brother brand and see what I come up with. Thanks.

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

dmh1
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 2/12/14 3:26 PM

Good luck! I'm sure whatever technique you choose it'll work out fine...maybe after some trial and error, but that's what makes sewing an adventure

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Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

wendyrb
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In reply to dmh1 <<


Date: 2/12/14 3:32 PM

What a good idea to use a folder- thanks. Any idea if this foot would work on Pfaff? Mine is a Creative Performance. Will call dealer to check, but they may say Pfaff is always best versus generic. Can ask if Pfaff has a folder, never thought about it.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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