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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Burda magazine seam allowances ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Burda magazine seam allowances
Where NOT to add?
Vintage Joan
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Date: 2/18/14 12:20 PM

I'm sure this is a silly question, but when you're adding seam allowances on a magazine pattern, are you supposed to add seam allowances around the fly placket? I'm guessing not, since (hmm, duh) there are no actual seams on the placket?

I'm making a pair of Burda pants, and the underlap/fly facing piece I cut was too short. I'm now assuming this means I wasn't supposed to add seam allowances in that area. The pattern doesn't say not to. It only tells you not to add seam allowances on the fly facing/underlap piece.

Sheesh, I'm feeling silly now. But maybe someone else will be helped by this question, so I'll let myself be the one to feel silly.

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Vintage Joan
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Date: 2/18/14 4:28 PM

Hello...

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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 2/18/14 9:13 PM

Which pattern are you using? The instructions are usually clear where there is supposed to be a fold or different seam allowance, but it can be hard to see with all the overlapping lines on the pattern sheet. Maybe if you post the pattern you are working from someone can look up the instruction set and help you out.

Worst case scenario, you could add seam allowances and make up a muslin.

Vintage Joan
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In reply to MilongueraThreads <<
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Date: 2/19/14 11:12 AM

Quote:
Which pattern are you using? The instructions are usually clear where there is supposed to be a fold or different seam allowance

I don't have the instructions in front of me, but it's like every other Burda magazine pattern. It says to add a certain amount for the hem and to add 1.5 cm seam allowances everywhere else. It doesn't mention anything special about the fly/zipper area. The only thing it says about not adding seam allowances (and this is standard Burda, too) is that the rectangle you cut for the fly facing/underlap includes seam allowances.

I'll try to figure this out by comparing it to an envelope pattern that has all the seam allowances added. It's not serious this time. If I wasn't supposed to add them, it's not a big deal, but I want to be sure next time. Oh wait -- I have an idea. Maybe I'll check an Ottobre Woman magazine. They probably do it the same way as Burda wants you to, but their instructions are clearer.

-- Edited on 2/19/14 11:19 AM --

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carolineG
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In reply to Vintage Joan <<


Date: 2/19/14 2:46 PM

In this case I would add a modest seam allowance, clearly marking the actual printed pattern line on the fabric. I've been sewing Burda for years and I still get stumped - especially when they give you measurements to draft your own square or rectangular pieces. Are you supposed to add seam allowances or are they included in the measurements?

Generally in situations like the one you describe I make sure the lines are clearly chalked in and add seam allowance. Once I'm sewing I pin things together to clarify if I need the seam allowance or not.

Hope that helps! There are many mysteries with Burda.

ASiverson
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Date: 2/19/14 4:12 PM

I don't find your question silly at all. Did you get your answer? Just curious myself!

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Vintage Joan
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In reply to ASiverson <<


Date: 2/19/14 7:36 PM

Quote:
I don't find your question silly at all. Did you get your answer? Just curious myself!


Thanks! Well, I compared the pieces to a Burda envelope pattern. This envelope pattern is what I'm using for instructions -- it's similar to the pattern I'm making from a magazine but the instructions are much clearer, and it's one of the few women's pants patterns I could find with the same underlap/facing piece for the fly. Here's what the envelope pattern pieces are telling me. Remember this envelope pattern DOES have seam allowances included:

-- Pants front -- has a seam allowance at the top, where the waistband gets attached; that appears to be the only seam in the fly area (other than the inseams below it)

-- Fly underlap/facing -- you make a seam at the bottom of the rectangle (right sides get folded together and you sew a seam at the bottom to make a finished underlap/facing piece)

The fly placket area (including a seam allowance at the top) and the fly facing/underlap (including a seam allowance at the bottom) are the same length. So, my conclusion is that you don't add seam allowances to the placket itself, just at the top. The facing/underlap piece (once the seam is sewn at the bottom and the piece is turned right-side out again) extends from the top of the seam allowance to a bit above the bottom of the placket / a bit below the zipper stop.

I know I know, a picture would help. My camera doesn't work anymore, so if this is totally confusing, I'll draw a diagram and post it.

This is only my conclusion -- I could be wrong. But it would help explain why the underlap/facing I cut was too short.



-- Edited on 2/19/14 7:39 PM --

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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

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