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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vogue V1044 vintage reissue dress muslin ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue V1044 vintage reissue dress muslin
My bodice is not flattering at all...
cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr
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Date: 2/24/14 7:43 PM

Hello,

Was wondering if I could get some fitting advice with Vogue 1044. Here is the line drawing and other images I found on google



There are more images on PR here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/21005
I personally like the black one best.

Ok, let's look at my muslin of horror... FYI the reason why it is a peplum is because I was working with 3 yards of this fabric for my muslin, so after making the bodice I had very little fabric for the skirt. I wanted to practice the pleats and gathers, so length wasn't important but now it's hard to not look at the crazy peplum that ended up happening.



My questions/notes:
1. Are the wrinkles on the sleeves just a nature of the raglan cut? (I think its called raglan, anyway)
2. I feel as if this top flattens me and I look like a box on top.
3. I planned on using a similarly striped fabric for this dress, but now I am backtracking because I don't know if such a busy fabric, especially stripes, works well with all the gathers and pleats going on on top and bottom here. Wondering if a solid color would be more flattering for this dress.
4. The bodice is comfortable, but looking at the pictures now, is it too big? I purchased the size 18-20-22 combo for this pattern, and I made a size 18. It is now out of print so I can't buy a smaller size...
5. This pattern calls for an "inside belt". Is this the same as a waist stay? When making the inside belt, it fit around my waist but was too short for the muslin waist - so I cut another piece of grosgain that was longer. Would this have fit better had I used the shorter piece of grosgrain? Maybe I should untack it and add in a shorter piece and try it on again?
6. Some people have replaced the skirt with a circle skirt, but I don't know if I want to give up on the pleats/gathers for the skirt. I guess I want to believe that pleats/gathers can be flattering, I just have to figure out the correct place on my body for them to go around to work.

Usually muslins encourage me, but this one actually ended up zapping my desire to make this dress. It's such a shame as I really love this pattern, but I just don't know if it would be flattering on my figure or not. I guess I'm having trouble pinpointing what's wrong: fit, fabric type, fabric print, etc.

Thank you in advance for any help.

TGWGWS
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Date: 2/26/14 0:51 AM

It looks very cute from the front. From the side it looks like your shoulders are slightly forward and the waist is higher in front than the back. I would determine where my waist is and adjust the pattern.

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Tina
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Elona
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Date: 2/26/14 2:16 AM

1. Those wrinkles in the sleeves are indeed a feature of what is called a cut-on cap sleeve, in this case. You'll notice they are visible on the pink fashion photo and on all the real-life photos except maybe the black, and that's because, well, it's black. With cut-on sleeves, there is none of the nice contouring that you get with an armscye seam.

2. No one but a young girl or Audrey Hepburn can wear a tucked bodice, especially tucks below a yoke, without looking boxy. If you have a bosom, tucks spell chunky.

3. A very full, full skirt gathered or pleated to the bodice and then cinched with a belt tends to enhance any tendency towards the 'box on legs' look. This is especially true when the sweeping long skirt of a 'New Look' pattern of the late 1940s-early 50s is shortened. You can get around some of these problems with the skirt by using a light, soft, drapy fabric that doesn't bunch up at the waist.

I believe you could make this pattern work for you with the right fabric and quite a bit of careful fitting, but I suspect you'd be happier with a smoother, simpler line.



-- Edited on 2/26/14 2:24 AM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to cathytxtwfr <<
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Date: 2/26/14 9:50 AM

Actually I think that the light blue dress fits the best. The black one has diagonal wrinkles on the front shoulder that have nothing to do with being a kimono sleeve.
It looks like you might need a small fba so that you don't feel squashed.
undo your top sleeve seam and see where it wants to go. Smooth the front out until the wrinkles disappear. The seams will not meet at the neckline. You can either cut off the back to meet the front to meet the back edge, divide the difference or cut off the back neck if you like where the neckline is falling.
Make sure that the shoulder seam is actually on the top of your shoulder and you can't see it from the front.

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CathrynR
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Date: 2/26/14 12:50 PM

I think it would keep to the style meant for the dress if a solid fabric was used, cotton or linen. Also, it looks to me as if you need a small FBA adjustment and a high rounded back/forward neck adjustment. Doesn't look as if these should be huge adjustments, but I think adding them would make a huge difference.

cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr
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Date: 2/26/14 1:56 PM

Hello all! Thank you so much for the help!

I've decided I will scrap the idea of using a print for the final dress. The idea was good, my sketch (not pictured) was good, but reality is a different thing. I will be shopping around for a solid and drapey fabric.

But before that, I am going to make another muslin in a solid color to practice:
-Lengthening the bodice (I do have a long torso)
-Doing a SBA
-Adjusting my shoulder seams for a front shoulder adjustment

Might take me a few months, but I'll get there! Thanks again

Cathy



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Date: 3/7/14 7:01 AM

SBAs are decreasing the bust size and the recommendations here are to slightly increase which I agree with. That is why the front is lifting. Make sure you use directions for an FBA, not an SBA.

I think, as always, the pattern photo is telling. She has her arms in that unnatural position for a reason, so the armpit wrinkles don't show. I like the blue fit best also. Stripes are not always the best for a cut on or raglan sleeve. They do emphasize the wrinkles.
-- Edited on 3/7/14 7:02 AM --
-- Edited on 3/7/14 7:02 AM --

Sheseams
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Sheseams
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In reply to cathytxtwfr <<


Date: 3/13/14 12:45 PM

Quote: cathytxtwfr
Hello all! Thank you so much for the help!



I've decided I will scrap the idea of using a print for the final dress. The idea was good, my sketch (not pictured) was good, but reality is a different thing. I will be shopping around for a solid and drapey fabric.



But before that, I am going to make another muslin in a solid color to practice:

-Lengthening the bodice (I do have a long torso)

-Doing a SBA

-Adjusting my shoulder seams for a front shoulder adjustment



Might take me a few months, but I'll get there! Thanks again



Cathy

Excellent goals!

Oh quick add on, make sure you take in the side seam in a touch. Once you add the FBA and the length for the torso, both of which are my standard alterations, you will find the need to cinch your waist a little more. HTH

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cathytxtwfr
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cathytxtwfr
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Date: 3/17/14 12:07 PM

Thanks for catching my mistake on the SBA! When I read "small FBA" i paid more attention to the word "small" instead of the letter F. Ok, so FBA is what I will be doing, not SBA.

HelenM01
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Date: 3/17/14 12:19 PM

It takes a slim figure to pull of a skirt with full gathers at the waist. Compare the drawing with the photos of actual humans, and you'll see the exaggeration.

I agree that a solid color will show off the tucks nicely, they seem to disappear into the stripe.

When the skirt is longer the weight will pull it down a bit, so it won't look quiet as "peplum-y", but it will still be very full around the belly and behind.

I personally prefer circle skirts on my body type, so I think a lot depends on your particular body type and what is flattering on you.

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