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Forum > Vintage Sewing > 1960 Don Loper Evening Coat/Dress Pattern Construction ( Moderated by arianamaniacs)

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1960 Don Loper Evening Coat/Dress Pattern Construction
Construction questions
redheadgrrl
redheadgrrl
Member since 10/30/08
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Date: 3/1/14 3:36 PM

Hi there. Hoping for a little guidance, or information, or even encouragement and empathy. This will be my first foray into working with vintage patterns, my first coat construction, and my first silk garment adventure. Also, the first time I've sewn a garment for my mother, which is also a special 'first' for me. :)

I am working with an Advance pattern, A678. I've pressed and traced the original pattern for the coat, and I was a little surprised to discover that the entire coat is just 3 pattern pieces: back coat and sleeve piece, front Coat and sleeve (including the big shawl collar) piece, and facing piece.

I'm curious whether anyone has seen or constructed anything similar? I was immediately wondering how she'll be able to lift her arms while wearing the coat, whether I'll need a particular kind of interfacing, and etc. anyone care to share your thoughts? They would be greatly appreciated.

I expect lots of questions as I go, and I expect it to be a pretty amazing learning process. I'm working through a couple of Craftsy courses simultaneously (Sewing with Silks and The Carefree Flyaway Coat, especially), and I found a basic dressmaking skills book from the era as well. I'd just love a couple of real people with vintage pattern interest and/or experience to share with as I go along. Any takers?

Thanks for any suggestions, assistance, or encouragement.

Blessings,
Tamara
diane s
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diane s
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Date: 3/1/14 9:19 PM

advance A678

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

arianamaniacs
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Date: 3/2/14 6:25 AM

Since there are a lot of first times, Id really recommend making a muslin just to check the basic fit. It wont take too much time since its a limited no. of pieces. The curve of the shoulder is important to get right. Youll be glad you did before cutting into your silk. Good luck!
-- Edited on 3/2/14 6:28 AM --

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tourist
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Date: 3/2/14 10:48 AM

I recall those fashions. The extra width of the coat allows some arm movement but yes, if you try to say, put on a scarf by swinging the scarf up and over with both arms overhead, the whole coat will go up. I had a dress that did that!

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

PattyE
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In reply to redheadgrrl

Date: 3/2/14 12:19 PM

What silk are you using?

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Stash: 202.625 yds. @ 04.17.16

justgail

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Date: 3/10/14 6:14 PM

I seem to recall that an underarm gusset can be added to this type of sleeve to allow for more movement. It might be worth checking into.

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Karrol
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Date: 4/8/14 1:30 PM

I'm also making a 60's coat and dress. The fabric I wanted to use was a cotton so I've underlined and will line the coat for more stiffness. I want that swing shape to hold up. I think the coats were really just meant to be worn from the car to inside, so it's just basically a cover up. You can add gussets to the underarms if you want more range of motion. But I agree that you definitely want to make a muslin first to test the shoulder fit and shape before you go forward. Good luck!

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Irvine, CA

Elona
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In reply to justgail

Date: 4/8/14 3:40 PM

Quote: justgail
I seem to recall that an underarm gusset can be added to this type of sleeve to allow for more movement. It might be worth checking into.

In fact, it was often designed into patterns like these back then.

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Elona

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