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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > The quest for the perfect shirt ( Moderated by JEF)

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The quest for the perfect shirt
testing two patterns
Datcat23
Datcat23
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 3/2/14 2:26 AM

Yep, its time to update my t-shirt supply, and I think perhaps, to stop wearing sacks. I am still a fair bit conscious of my "comfort layer", but I think that perhaps I am making myself look bigger than I am at times.

So, this is my experimenting to find a shirt that does two things ...... fits well BUT skims rather than clings.

First we have the CZM t-shirt. A nice enough shirt, with a lovely shaped raglan seam. It needs a little grading out at the hips, and probably I need to do my cheats FBA to give the girls a bit more room.



And second we have the Jalie Raglan Tee. To start with, I have to say ...... I HATE THE NECK BINDING. For whatever reason the neck binding was uber-difficult, slipping sideways under the presser foot, and just generally being a bear. Add to that, that the method ends up with the raglan seams (and therefore the overlocking) showing right at the edge of the neckline. So, future incarnations will have my normal method of binding the neckline. I really like this 3/4 length sleeve, especially coming into Autumn, although I wear this length all winter ..... long sleeves usually end up pushed up. This one, I have already graded the hips out a size, but I don't think it needs additional room at the bust. I do prefer the shaped hem as well, thinking that perhaps it doesn't cut me off quite as much as the CZM.



I think you should probably be able to tell which one I like. I have put the CZM back into the pattern drawer, but the Jalie is on the cutting table. I have a lot of beautiful fabrics just waiting to become great t-shirts.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Julkane
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Julkane  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/2/14 8:42 AM

I am a fan of raglan sleeves- they just seem to fit all sorts of shoulder breadths. The Jalie looks very nice. I agree the other may need a little more room around the bust. Both are quite wearable however and you have done a fine job.

------
Elna Excellence 740, Pfaff Quilt expression 4.0, Janome 300E, Brother 8500D, Babylock Ellageo, Janome 900CPX CoverPro, Brother 5234 Project Runway Serger, Singer Treadle, Singer 66, Singer 99

http://juliannasjourney.blogspot.com/

Julia C
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Date: 3/2/14 9:45 AM

I like them both but I wonder if the CZM would fit better if you went up one size since the arms are a bit tight also. I like the fit through the middle better on this one. An inch longer might make it a more flattering length. The Jalie looks comfortable on you but black is not your most flattering color IMO.

Datcat23
Datcat23
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Date: 3/3/14 0:55 AM

That is the top size in the CZM, but since I prefer the fit of the Jalie, I think I will just stick with that. I realise its the fault of my camera, but the Jalie one is actually a deep purple (maybe aubergine), but I get you about dark colours. My plan is to wear this one under a hot pink cap sleeve cardi, assuming I ever get around to making the darn thing. The fabric has a hand like knitting, and I have been super wary of cutting it for fear of it ravelling before my eyes. Silly I know.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

lgrande
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lgrande  Friend of PR
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In reply to Datcat23 <<
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Date: 3/3/14 8:48 AM

I love the Jalie on you. The length and the sleeves and the fit are super flattering. The photo doesn't show any problems with the neck binding.
In fact, I might have to try this pattern....except, I'm not sure about the raglans. They don't always look good on me as I have sloping shoulders.

------
Linda

Bernina 830LE - Brother Dreamweaver VQ3000 - Bernina B530 - Janome 6600P - Pfaff 1209 - Babylock Evolution - Janome 644 - Babylock Sashiko2 - Babylock BLCS-2

westmoon
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In reply to Datcat23 <<
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Date: 3/3/14 9:08 AM

I think the Jalie top is the best of the two on you. In trying to figure out why I prefer the upper torso fit on the Jalie compared to the CZM on you, and I concluded it is something about the curve of the Jalie seamline along your shoulder. Somehow the seamline shape is just much more flattering to your shoulders and bust. (And now I REALLY want the Jalie pattern, instead of just having a low grade urge to buy it as previously!)

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

Andi
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Date: 3/3/14 9:47 AM

Are you married to the idea of a raglan tee? Set in sleeves look best on me, and my body shape is similar to yours.

Datcat23
Datcat23
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In reply to westmoon <<


Date: 3/3/14 3:54 PM

The czm curves up and runs along my arm a bit, where the jalie is a more vertical seam that seems to fall in the natural join of my arm to shoulder. I think that has a lot to do with it.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Datcat23
Datcat23
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AUSTRALIA
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Posts: 252
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In reply to Andi <<


Date: 3/3/14 3:56 PM

I have narrow shoulders and back, and find set in sleeves usually fit badly around the shoulders. Thats why I choose the raglan over set in.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Andi
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In reply to Datcat23 <<


Date: 3/3/14 7:57 PM

That is funny (well not really funny, more like odd) as I have very narrow shoulders and I have a wide , short neck(you do not). I find if I can do all the adjustments, I get a better, more slimming look in a fitted tee(christine jonsons base wear two is my TNT). The fitted shoulder gives my narrow shoulder more definition, and then the shirt hangs down from the shoulders, so there is an opportunity for my belly and hips to be skimmed over.

I finally got my Jalie raglan finished today and I think I am going ot like wearing it! Thanks for the motivation!

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