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Forum > Fitting Woes > Sleeve pulling out when arms raised ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Sleeve pulling out when arms raised
squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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Date: 3/7/14 10:10 AM

I've been drafting a basic long sleeved teeshirt for a male friend with lots of fit issues and I've got it 90% great (after about 5 muslins!) but the last remaining issue is that when he raises his arms, the underarm area pulls towards the sleeve and away from the body, which also raises the hemline:


(I've drawn lines approximate where his body is underneath the black fabric)

Now, I know enough that "raises arm, hem raises" is usually an issue of the armscye being too low, and raising that gives more movement to the arm. But when his arm is down, the armscye seam really is close to his natural underarm, so it doen't feel right to raise it further.

He's got a broad chest and even broader back with large biceps, but I don't think that the biceps are pulling the sleeve down, either, as there's enough room there...

Any ideas?

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www.fehrtrade.com

Marie367
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In reply to squirrellypoo

Date: 3/7/14 10:43 AM

I am looking at the lines where you think his body is. Where do the sleeves rest when his arm is down? Are the sleeves hanging off his arm a little? Do you need to reduce the fabric in that area to move that whole section/side closer to his body? Did you add for the broad back? Maybe a little too much? Not sure if this makes sense?
jacqui583
jacqui583
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Date: 3/7/14 10:56 AM

I wonder if a gusset would help.

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Jacqui

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dmh1
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In reply to squirrellypoo

Date: 3/7/14 11:00 AM

Could you get a photo of the fit when his arm is down?

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Michelle

squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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Date: 3/7/14 5:27 PM

Thanks. I haven't got a photo of him with his arm down (at least not for this version of the sleeve). I'll try to get one and post it in here.

And good point Marie about the broad back - I have adjusted significantly back there, so it's possible I added too much maybe.

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emm0119
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In reply to squirrellypoo
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Date: 3/7/14 6:14 PM

What is the shape of the sleeve cap? You might try widening/flattening it if it's tall. Taller cap = sleeve hangs more vertically instead of laterally = more propensity to pull up the hem

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~Erin~
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Mel.J
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Date: 3/7/14 6:47 PM

I have no expertise, but there was a detailed post on sleeve drafting on the blog Ikatbag - maybe it will help you think about the possibilities?

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Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

simplystitches
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Date: 3/7/14 9:31 PM

You can easily test to see if you added too much for the broad back/chest and/or the underarm depth by pinning.

I'd pin a tuck in the shoulder seam to bring the shoulder in a bit and see if that takes care of the problem. The same with the underarm depth by changing the shoulder angle.

Is it possible that you have too much circumference/width right at the underarm ss going into the sleeve? Try pinning a deeper sa through there. That would also raise the underarm.

Debbie
ASiverson
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Date: 3/8/14 9:52 AM

All I can say, is good luck!

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Annette

KathySews
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Date: 3/8/14 10:49 AM

HERE is a method Jennifer Stern uses on her sleeves. It might be worth a try
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