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Pattern Holy Grail?
Do you have a picture in your head that you keep looking for?
mmcp
mmcp  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/7/14 7:58 PM

I wondered if anyone else does this. I have the requirements for the dress in my head: it doesn't have a waist seam at the true waist. It is quite fitted at the top. It has interesting, slightly funky design lines. It has long sleeves. It calls for a woven fabric, not a knit. It doesn't use 5 yards of fabric. Oh yes, and it is comfortable, and I should be able to wear it at work AND on the weekend ! I have ended up with a stack of patterns for dresses with princess seams, but they are boring. I buy Marcy Tilton and Betzina patterns, which are interesting and have great lines, but I swim in all of them, no matter how much I try and take them in (or by the time I've taken them in enough, they've lost all their oomph.) Or they're designed for Amazons and have no provision for above-the-waist adjustments and after futzing with a thousand pieces to avoid the waist falling below my hip I decide I could probably start from scratch and take less time. Then I drape on the dress form and get frustrated, because, let's face it, I'm not a designer, I just sew. Does anyone else do this--look for "that perfect pattern," which clearly doesn't exist? What is yours? Have you found it? Is it just me?

michellep74
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Date: 3/7/14 9:01 PM

A woven blouse pattern for a 5'2" woman with a post-nursing bust that makes it look like she's hiding a couple of deflated cantelopes under her shirt. It should fit straight out of the envelope with no adjustments or gaping.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

BrendaR
BrendaR
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Date: 3/8/14 10:10 AM

For years, I was looking for the perfect jeans jacket pattern.

About the fitting issues you have--maybe you need to focus on fitting the neckline/shoulder area first and then adjusting the vertical seams. That's my problem. My perfect neckline/shoulder/high bust fit is with a size 14, and I need more like an 18 from there on down. If I use a size 18 pattern it has been most disastrous.

You might look for a pattern with a waistline seam just to be able to do the fitting, and do a muslin. Once you get it to fit, use the muslin as a pattern. Release any darts but leave each section (top and bottom front, for example) sewn together at the waist. You can't use a pattern with vertical darts for this unless they match up perfectly or you re-align them if they don't, but you can use a pattern with bust or shoulder darts.

Baja Susana
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Date: 3/8/14 10:11 AM

Mmcp and Michelle,
I gave up on the Big Four and most patterns years ago.
I use Lutterloh almost exclusively for my sewing.
I draft the pattern using their very simple connect the dots system and make well fitting clothes. Most pattern pieces are interchangeable.
No more slicing and dicing and distorting the patterns, or doing after sewing tweaks and fixes. Perfectly fitting clothes that match my body, with only two measurements.
I do check the shoulder width, and sometimes have to do a short waist adjustment, but that is I it.
Try it you'll like it. The system is a touch pricey for starters, but add up the cost of all of those patterns that you cannot use. Visit my blog www.susansewsdaily.blogspot.com and you can see the clothes I have made. I am not stick thin, and I am short.

The Lutterloh thread is a group of men and women that have made many garments successfully, and they are supportive, and trade patterns.
OK off my soap box
Susan

------
Baja Susana
www.susansewsdaily.blogspot.com
Sewing on the beach, what could be better?

Hauteaway
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Hauteaway  Friend of PR
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In reply to michellep74 <<
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Date: 3/8/14 10:53 AM

Quote: michellep74
A woven blouse pattern for a 5'2" woman with a post-nursing bust that makes it look like she's hiding a couple of deflated cantelopes under her shirt. It should fit straight out of the envelope with no adjustments or gaping.

Wait 'til you're about 60 years old and, while retaining the bust or even getting more, you lose a couple of inches of the height. I am roughly the shape of a dented soda can.

------
YAN: Yet Another Nancy

Karla Kizer
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Date: 3/8/14 11:21 AM

Michelle, have you thought of trying one of the simple shirt designs at Lekala.co? Their patterns are on sale this weekend for $1.49, and once you put in your measurements (just a few) and specify any adjustments you want to make, the downloadable pattern should be a pretty darned good fit. Some assembly required, of course, but it's very doable.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Karla Kizer
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Date: 3/8/14 11:24 AM

mmcp, have you seen the newest dress pattern at StyleArc? It doesn't have long sleeves (you could fix that), but it's an interesting design for wovens - and no waist seam!

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



grey ann
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grey ann  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/8/14 7:47 PM

Oh Hauteaway - dented soda can! Too funny, but boy, can I relate!!

MMCP - I wonder if you are starting with the correct pattern size? Try measuring your upper bust (above the bust under the arms.) The shoulder is the most important part to fit - you can always do a FBA or add under the arms, but if the shoulders are too big, it is hard to fix that.
I use the SureFitDesign system - similar to Lutterloh, but the owner, Glenda Sparling, has a great website with free videos and will even skype with you to help you get a perfect fitting sloper. Check it out!

jacqui583
jacqui583
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Date: 3/8/14 9:06 PM

Well my Holy Grail pattern would be one that makes me look about 20 pounds lighter and 30 years younger. I don't care if it's a dress, pants, or a potato sack if it can pull that off

------
Jacqui

Phoebe (Pfaff Quilt Ambition 2.0)
Jenny (Janome Coverpro 1000cpx)
Sergio (Brother 1034D)
Betty (White 1505)

Karla Kizer
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In reply to jacqui583 <<
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Date: 3/8/14 10:06 PM

I agree. I think that means I'm looking for a burqa.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



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