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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pastille Dress (Colette) ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pastille Dress (Colette)
wrinkles/pooling in the back
mary bobbins
mary bobbins
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Member since 11/23/13
Posts: 2
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Date: 3/8/14 9:20 AM

I've made my first dress (well, my first toile for a dress, courtesy of an old IKEA sheet). Woohoo!

The fit is better than I expected, but there are some wrinkles in the back and I'm not entirely sure what's causing them.

They don't feel like tight wrinkles - more like pooling just under the shoulder blades. (But the photos do look like the dress is too tight in the back, so maybe I'm wrong about that.) I did a 2cm swayback adjustment plus a 1.5cm narrow back adjustment (a slash alteration along the entire length of the top).

My theories:
1. I need a second pivot alteration (in addition to the swayback adjustment) slightly higher up on the back.
2. The narrow back adjustment was a mistake (in other words, the wrinkles are down to tightness).
3. Both of the above.

I'm also planning to do a small FBA and take in a centimetre or so on the side seams at upper thigh level. Please ignore the sloppy zip insertion - I was tired (plus I'm not very good at inserting zips yet ;))

I would be very grateful for any help/advice/thoughts, if you can find it in your hearts to help out a poor beginner. :D









Sorry, the photo upload doesn't seem to have worked, here's the link to the photos on flickr.
-- Edited on 3/8/14 9:27 AM --
-- Edited on 3/8/14 9:29 AM --

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/10/06
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Date: 3/8/14 11:36 AM

That is pretty good for a first go. It looks to me as though you need a sway back adjustment to reduce the amount of fabric at the centre back seam between armhole height and high hip. I also think you may need a tad more fabric in the back but do the sway back adjustment first.

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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Date: 3/8/14 4:54 PM

Agree with Clare that it looks like you still have some length to take out of the back around mid back. The back looks way more firmly fitted than the front, so I'd suggest taking out some of the darts to allow more room and see if that helps with the pulling. It is entirely possible that you are narrow in some areas and not others so narrowing all the way down may have overdone it in some areas.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

mary bobbins
mary bobbins
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Member since 11/23/13
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Date: 3/9/14 4:20 AM

Thank you so much, Clare and Tracy!

That sounds very plausible. I've now pinned some length out of the mid back area and it looks better to me. (I've added another photo to the flickr photostream in case anyone wants to have a look.)

It doesn't look tight any more. In fact, the waist area now looks and feels a tad loose. But I don't want to keep removing ease until I can no longer breathe...

Tracy, I'm not even sure I have a narrow back - I removed some width because it helped with a top I made previously, but this is only my third garment, so I'm working on the basis of very limited experience.

mmcp
mmcp  Friend of PR
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MD USA
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Date: 3/9/14 1:22 PM

Wow, that's a huge improvement. And it looks like you've already learned an important lesson--don't OVERfit. You need to be able to sit, put your shoes on, and eat lunch in your dress! Looks like a wearable muslin to me.

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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In reply to mary bobbins <<


Date: 3/9/14 6:34 PM

Quote: mary bobbins
It doesn't look tight any more. In fact, the waist area now looks and feels a tad loose. But I don't want to keep removing ease until I can no longer breathe...



Tracy, I'm not even sure I have a narrow back - I removed some width because it helped with a top I made previously, but this is only my third garment, so I'm working on the basis of very limited experience.

That's how we all do it, trial and error It is amazing the difference changing the length can make. The fit looks much better already.
I have the opposite - narrow shoulders and very wide upper back, so I take in at one point, slash and spread the next, then take out a massive swayback adjustment, so I totally empathise with working it all out.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

dragonzflame
dragonzflame
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 6/9/11
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Date: 3/18/14 9:00 PM

I hear that's a pretty common problem with that pattern, even among people who never need swayback adjustments - consensus seems to be that the back is drafted too long for the front.

Lauren of Lladybird talks about how she fixed it here: http://lladybird.com/2012/03/12/completed-colette-pastille/

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