SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Patterns and Notions > Lekala sleeves ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Lekala sleeves
how to tell front from back?
detroy
star
detroy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Michigan USA
Member since 8/4/13
Posts: 417
Send Message

      



Date: 3/8/14 3:20 PM

None of my Lekala patterns have double notches on the back of the sleeves. How do I know which sleeve to put where? The one I'm working on right now is extra difficult as the curves for front and back sleeve are very similar, so I'm basting it in each way to see what's better. But this is way too tedious to do each time.

Karla Kizer
starstarstar
Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 7831
Send Message

      



Date: 3/8/14 5:38 PM

Are there any notches at all on the sleeves? If so, are there any on the bodice front and back?
-- Edited on 3/8/14 5:39 PM --

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



detroy
star
detroy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Michigan USA
Member since 8/4/13
Posts: 417
Send Message

      



In reply to Karla Kizer <<


Date: 3/9/14 8:20 AM

There are notches on the sleeves, but only singles. No armscye notches on the bodice.

I was having such a devil of a time that I recut the sleeves using sleeves from a Simplicity pattern. It worked, but not too sure that it will on another Lekala pattern.

blue mooney
starstarstar
blue mooney
Intermediate
Member since 12/21/02
Posts: 1871
Send Message

      



In reply to detroy <<


Date: 3/9/14 9:39 AM

With Burda and Ottobre, there is only a single notch on the sleeve head, and the notched side is the front. They also usually have a mark that lines up with the shoulder seam. I haven't used Lekala yet, but they might be the same.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

detroy
star
detroy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Michigan USA
Member since 8/4/13
Posts: 417
Send Message

      



In reply to blue mooney <<


Date: 3/9/14 11:21 AM

No, it's not like that, unfortunately. There is a notch for the front, and one for the back. Maybe to mark ease areas? Then on the bodice there are no sleeve notches.

I just looked through al the patterns I bought. Two of them are like this and the rest have some sort of designation (like the Burda you mentioned). Just my luck that the one I decided to sew up is like this.

Laurasews
star
Laurasews  Friend of PR
Advanced
Colorado USA
Member since 12/27/04
Posts: 91
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/9/14 11:24 AM

I am making a Lekala jacket now. There is a notch at the top of the sleeve cap (to match the shoulder seam), one at the bottom of the sleeve to match the side seam (two piece sleeve, so underarm seams don't line up with the side seam) and one on the front of the sleeve which lines up with the armhole princess seam. There is nothing on the back of the sleeve or the bodice pieces.

I hope you can figure it out. I am amazed at the fit of these patterns. It is taking me longer to make my jacket due to the poorly translated instructions, but the end result is very impressive!

Karla Kizer
starstarstar
Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 7831
Send Message

      



Date: 3/9/14 12:11 PM

It sounds as if the notch on the bodice was inadvertently left off on some of these patterns. I don't think I've run into that yet, but I'll be prepared. The only other guideline I can think of is to look at the pattern pieces for the rest of the garment. Did they print out the right side or the left side of the rest of the garment? I'd make the probably-rash assumption that the sleeve was printed the same way.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Aixoise
star
Aixoise  Friend of PR
Advanced
California USA
Member since 7/6/04
Posts: 447
Send Message

      



In reply to detroy <<
thumbsup 3 members like this.


Date: 3/9/14 12:23 PM

I've just cut out a Lekala blouse. Here's how you tell front from back.

Look at the placement of the shoulder notch. It appears to be slightly off center. The slopes of the sleeve cap curve down from the shoulder notch in a slightly different shape: on one side the curve is longer and flatter; that side is the back of the sleeve. On the other side, the curve is deeper and shorter; this is the front curve. The difference is visible on my Lekala pattern.

The back curve is shallower because we have a convex curve over our back shoulder. We have a deeper, concave curve over the front of the shoulder.

Patterns back in the day were drafted this way, perhaps because styles were more fitted. In most current commercial patterns, the difference is so slight as to be nearly imperceptible - if there is a difference.

If you're not seeing the difference clearly, try folding the sleeve piece in half lengthwise, straight down from the shoulder notch. Use the "beam" (Lekala for grainline) as your guide to get a true on-grain fold. Then compare the sides of the curve.

Hope that helps.

I simply added a second notch to the sleeve back. Now I can't wait to see how nicely this sleeve will fit into the armscye and fit me.

detroy
star
detroy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Michigan USA
Member since 8/4/13
Posts: 417
Send Message

      



In reply to Aixoise <<


Date: 3/13/14 9:13 PM

Thanks for that explanation! It definitely helps. I thought that maybe the deeper curve was the front, but I wasn't sure and couldn't find any info on that. It's a good tip.

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8553
Send Message

      



In reply to detroy <<


Date: 3/14/14 2:20 AM

Here--about 1/8 of the way down the page--is the estimable Kathleen Fasanella's explanation of how a sleeve cap should be cut, if it were to be anatomically correct.

I think she has a point: We use our arms for activities that are more toward the fronts of our bodies, therefore, we need less 'reaching room' in the front of the armhole than we do on the back. And of course, we do almost nothing out at the side, therefore the sleeve cap should not be a symmetrical curve, as it so often is in American patterns (European patterns like Burda have a shorter front curve).

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Patterns and Notions >> Lekala sleeves

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Altering Jackets
Altering Jackets

Class Details

Online Class
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Class Details

McCall's 3222

photo
by: wingamajig

Review
Favorite Things Hushabye Baby Pattern

Favorite Things Hushabye Baby Pattern

More Info
You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern

You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.