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Forum > Fitting Woes > First Ever Muslin Fitting: McCalls 9560 Vintage Kimono Blouse ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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First Ever Muslin Fitting: McCalls 9560 Vintage Kimono Blouse
Self taught beginner looking for fitting guidence.
Cloverdove
Cloverdove
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CT USA
Member since 3/13/14
Posts: 3
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Date: 3/14/14 11:56 PM

Self taught, beginner here with my first ever muslin / fitting.

I know there's probably more than one fitting issue here, and I'm hoping to pin point exactly what those fitting issues are with the help and guidance of the PR experts. Hopefully my shoddy sewing wont distract from assessing the fit.
Also, the fabric is not actually muslin, but old cotton bedding that I salvaged, not sure if that matters much.

Ok, here is what I did:
The pattern was too small, so I added inches to pretty much everything.

My measurements:
HB- 39"
FB- 44"
W- 33"
H- 44"

The muslin side seam on the left (short sleeve side) was taken in 1/2" and up 1" at the armseye, just to see how it would look, which might account for that side looking a little smaller and shorter.
Also, I sewed the bottom of the front and back tucks closed on the muslin, (just to see how it would look).

The issues that I see:
-The front hem line hangs away from the body (side view)
-The (mid) back needs shortening, aka swayback?
-Bust dart is all wrong.
-front waist tucks are not flattering.
-The front is an unflattering length.
-Baggy blobs of fabric at the side seams below bust.

My plan of action thus far:
-Correct the bust point, lower the bust dart & change it to a french dart?
-Fold out the extra fabric from the back, and transfer change to pattern.
- Add length to the front by adding inches at the bottom?
-Maybe lengthening the bust area might help something?

The back alterations I've seen say to fold out at the back shoulder blades. Should I fold out at the shoulder blades or fold out where the fabric poofs out at my mid back just above the waist tucks?

What might be causing those side seam blobs, I couldn't hazard a guess.

As far as the way the front hem hangs away from my body, I have no idea what causes that.
And...
Those front tucks. What can I do to make those look better?


Thanks, it's been a pleasure having the opportunity to read the PR posts and I'm so looking forward to fantastic fitting feedback!








-- Edited on 3/15/14 0:16 AM --
-- Edited on 3/15/14 1:10 AM --
-- Edited on 3/15/14 1:39 AM --

SewLibra
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In reply to Cloverdove <<


Date: 3/15/14 1:12 AM

Hi Cloverdove and welcome to PR! I don't know that I can solve all your fitting issues, but I can tell you I have a similar upper body type and am currently in the muslin stage of a front button down top using cotton. My upper bust is 39" and my full bust is 42", and patterns are generally made for B cup. Therefore, making a full bust adjustment (FBA) is inevitable.

First, does your pattern envelope suggest using a knit or a woven? I ask this because there is just a small slit in the back of your top for getting in on and off. You are using a woven (cotton), for the muslin. A muslin should be a similar type of fabric that you will use for the garment.

You should use the size the closest to your upper bust measurement, and that way the shoulders hopefully won't be too wide for you. When you alter your pattern for the FBA, that will give more room in the bust and also lengthen the front so it won't be shorter than the back. I think your front should be lowered rather than the back shortened, or after hemming you will have a very short top! Since the FBA also widens the hemline, you can take that in with your vertical front tucks.

On the side with the sleeve, when you put your arm up do you have free range of motion? If not that is an indication that your armscye is too big and/or low. The armscye should be pretty close around your underarm area but not tight and uncomfortable. That actually helps your movement when you have sleeves. A size that fits your upper bust would again help here.

Maybe start over with those suggestions and then see what needs to be done. What is the name and number of this pattern, anyway? Maybe it would help if I could look it up and see the envelope cover.

Hopefully others will chime in too, and help you out as well. Good luck!


Here are some links to familiarize you with FBAs. I don't want to scare you off so these are the simplest ones I have.
FBA Video


For some reason this one would not post in the http:// box, but you can look it up and also find many others.

http://www.sewnews.com/articles/full_bust_adjustment




-- Edited on 3/15/14 1:32 AM --

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beauturbo
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Date: 3/15/14 1:38 AM





I put the pattern envelope images up for you, as that might help some. I don't have too many good ideas there, but:

I think one thing is it was a "Teens pattern" and so they expected the teens to maybe be a bit more flat chested, and the largest size it came in, was the Teens size 16 there for someone with a 34" inch bust and 28" waist.

So you probably did have to add at least 10 inches to it for a 44" inch bust instead even?

I notice one of the fabrics recommended for it though, is jersey. I think if made up out of out a nice 4 way stretchy jersey, and not a non stretch stiffer woven fabric, some or a lot of fitting issues might just go away even?

I think it is shorter in the front, just because of your 44" bust measurement there and so that is pulling up the bottom hem area of the front and making it shorter in the front.
-- Edited on 3/15/14 1:40 AM --

I also think just those particular kind of "cut on" but also kind of high under the arms sleeves just don't give much arm movement and mobility for anyone, under any circumstances, but they are more kind of a style choice there for that kind of style. If you want more arm reach and mobility there, a lot of the 1950's patterns that had that cut on sleeve like that, actually put in a little triangular sleeve gusset under the arm to even get that, but your pattern does not seem to have been made that way, but you could add it in, if you wanted to.

-- Edited on 3/15/14 2:00 AM --

SewLibra
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Date: 3/15/14 2:05 AM

Oh wow, I apologize for not seeing in your title that this is a vintage pattern. I have no experience with vintage!

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SewLibra
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Cloverdove
Cloverdove
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 3/15/14 3:36 AM

I just took another look at one of the tailoring books I got from the library, and in my side pictures it looks like the shoulder seem is falling forward --- A possible symptom of a loose neck. Hmmm.

I took in the armsye on the muslin on the left hand side, thinking it might get rid of the blobs of fabric at the side seam, but it just made that side smaller/shorter.
-- Edited on 3/15/14 3:38 AM --

JaxOz
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Date: 3/15/14 5:06 AM

Hi Cloverdove
i agree with Sew Libra you definitely need a FBA - if I were you I would do that first before then reassess- you might find that it sorts out a lot of other issues... in fact i would think it might sort out everything except the sway back.... ask me how I know ;-0
Love the collar detail, i think it will really worth the effort to get it right.
Good luck

Addierecoy
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Date: 3/15/14 7:43 AM

I love that blouse. Very cool.

I concur with trying it in a knit. I think you could get away with just a FBA and lengthening the front in a 4 way stretch. It's also going to drape more like the illustration in knit. Not that most vintage ever look exactly like the illustrations, but that will get you closer.

simplystitches
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Date: 3/15/14 9:56 AM

You definately need a FBA. That's why the front is tenting out at the hem. There are also stress pulls from the ss to the bust. I think that's what's also causing the fabric to pool at your lower back. It;s pulling at the ss and pulling the back fabric up and forward.

Do a FBA first because that affects so many different areas in both front and back and post new pictures.

Debbie

TGWGWS
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Date: 3/16/14 2:53 PM

I think the tucks are supposed to be at the waist level. The tucks in front are too high. The blouse is made to be tucked in and the bottom not seen. The bottom will be bunchy/loose with tucks. To wear the blouse untucked, maybe make the bottom tuck like a dart so the blouse bottom will be more fitted.
-- Edited on 3/16/14 2:58 PM --

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Tina
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Cloverdove
Cloverdove
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Member since 3/13/14
Posts: 3
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In reply to TGWGWS <<


Date: 3/17/14 4:33 AM

Hi TGWGWS, Lol, so temptingly logical, I gave this alteration a try and presto~!
It worked. I also took in the back at the center seam and it lays a lot nicer now.
I'll post pictures tomorrow.

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