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Forum > Fitting Woes > Renfrew shoulder and arm fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Renfrew shoulder and arm fitting
LN
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LN
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Date: 3/16/14 1:49 AM

I recently completed my first Sewaholic Renfrew. I'm overall very happy with the style and fit but there are a couple of imperfections that I'd love to fix if possible.



When I have my arms down, there's a lot of wrinkling at the armpits. In the third picture, I have my thumb in my armpit so you can see that there's excess fabric below. I think that's what causes the wrinkling but I am not sure where I should take it out from. Is it caused by a small chest? Small arms? Something else? What kind of fix would you recommend?



When I raise my arms, the shoulder puckers up. At first, I thought that I needed to widen the shoulder but now I'm not sure. Does this look like a fitting problem or could it be more of a construction issue?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm so close to a perfect t-shirt! Thank you so much for helping me get there.
-- Edited on 3/16/14 1:50 AM --

Marilly
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Date: 3/16/14 3:59 AM

In comparison with the Renfrew photos on Sewaholic, your shoulder seam doesn't look long enough. The model has hers at the mid shoulder ball while yours is riding well on the inside of it. I'd try lengthening the shoulders .5 in. to start and see if that will let the armhole relax and get rid of the underarm binding and that diagonal tenting from bust to armhole in the front.
Shel

LauraTS
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Date: 3/16/14 12:50 PM

I think I agree with Marilly, try widening the shoulders and see if that does it. It's funny, looking at your pictures it's almost as if you need the shoulder seam wider out at the top of the shoulder, but by the time you get to the armpit the seam needs to come in narrower. Maybe the way the sleeve seam lies needs to be more angled, if you will, to match your body shape? Tilting the armscye of the bodice out a bit at an angle, if you will.

Along the lines of these shoulder alterations at Colette: http://www.sewalongs.com/hawthorn/hawthorn-wide-or-narrow-shoulder-adjustment

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LN
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 3/16/14 1:47 PM

Thank you both so much Marilly and Laura!

I agree exactly with your description, Laura, and the competing problems had me scratching my head. I see exactly what you mean by angling out the sleeve seam. Thanks for the helpful link.

ASiverson
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Date: 3/17/14 10:50 AM

I would love to know how you make out, if you can remember to post when done! I want to know what worked for you. TFS!

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Date: 3/17/14 3:38 PM

You may also need more sleeve cap height. Draw a horizontal line in a washable marker or chalk on the flat piece, perpendicular to the lengthwise grain, halfway up the cap. I'd put one near the bottom hem, too, out of the cap area. When the sleeve is in place, if the lines look like they are riding up at the center, then you need more cap height.

dragonzflame
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Date: 3/18/14 8:54 PM

I laughed so hard when I saw this post, because I have spent the entire weekend on the Renfrew sleeve cap/armscye! Mine is not the tenting, but the 'cat whiskers' coming out from just under the arm.

I'll start by saying I have no fix for it, and am unsure if (on me) there even is one. I tried going up a size in the shoulders and armscye, no dice. I tried lowering the armpit and raising the sleeve cap, no dice. I tried adding some to the back, where it looked like it was pulling, no dice.

In the end it became apparent that those wrinkles were ease. I found that out by fixing the problem by scooping bits out here and there, and then realising that when I raised my arm, the sleeve cap came up with it and it stretched as tightly as the skin across a drum.

I probably could sneak the armpit down a bit, but after about six muslins, tears, tantrums, self-flagellation, self-condemnation of my sewing skills, a threat to sell my sewing machine and entire stash, and the realisation that ALL my knit tops, RTW included, do the same thing (not to mention a bunch of other people's Renfrews that I've seen), I've decided to trust Tasia and leave it the hell alone.
-- Edited on 3/18/14 8:55 PM --

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