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Those dang darts!
alpenrose
alpenrose  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 11/5/13
Posts: 200
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Date: 3/18/14 2:22 PM

Dear Friends:

I am still working on my first muslin pattern Vogue 1004. It has an underarm bust dart and a waist dart in the front (2 front pieces). It also has a way to widen (from shoulder down to waist) which I did. Then I opened the darts under arm and at the waist.
It also has a very heavy dark line from the underarmscye to a straight line which goes over to center front. This line is called bustline, but is nowhere near any of the darts--why is that and what is it for?
Second question: Now that I have opened both darts would you please give insight as to how to adjust (walk?)the darts so that everything lays flat?
Third Question: I have read somewhere that for a FBA you shorten the length of the darts--how do you calculate how much to shorten the dart?
Fourth Question: Do I also shorten the waist dart and if so by how much?
Fifth Question: Do I just point to MY apex and call that MY bust point and originate the dart from there?

Ok, Ok, I know you advanced sewers must get awfully tired of answering these questions--but, if you could just point me to some advice I would be very grateful. Please just remember this pattern does not do a FBA by cutting a line and moving to shoulder/arm etc.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
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Date: 3/18/14 10:08 PM

There are some good webcasts on Silhouette pattern website also check out youtube. Pictures are so much better than trying to write out an explanation as it would be lengthy.

Generally darts must end inside the bust circle, which is 3" around the bust point. How close to the bust point (apex) depends on the size and shape of the bust. The smaller the bust the close to the bust point the dart will end (1").

------
Ada

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 12/2/08
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In reply to alpenrose <<
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Date: 3/19/14 1:27 AM

I agree with AdaH. Also, after you do the FBA, mark your bust point (apex) on your muslin. Take out any darts you have sewn and pin in new darts in the position that is flattering and that will take the wrinkles out. You may prefer to not have darts coming out of the armscye (I personally do not like those but some women do), and move them down on the bodice. Totally up to you on what you like and what looks best on your body.

The end of the dart is usually 1 - 2" from the bust point, but as said before the larger and fuller the bust the further away the dart point might be.

For the waist darts (vertical darts) I do the same as the bust darts by trying on the muslin in front of a mirror and pinning them from below the bust apex to the hem. Once you have all your pins in place, sew the darts in the muslin, and transfer the markings to the pattern.

One way to move darts is to cut out a "box" and move it Like this. Although this tutorial does not involve armscye darts, but you can maybe still use the info. I basically just draw on the dart on my freezer paper version and fold the dart down. Then I tape paper underneath if needed to true up the seamline. When you unfold the dart, you will see the little protrusion out from the seamline at the wide end of your dart. That way when you sew the dart, the seam will be straight.

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D



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Date: 3/20/14 6:21 PM

I am so glad to see this information regarding bust darts in print. I have seen more than one pattern designer with darts ending right at the apex and it bugs me to no end. Doesn't look very good either! Thanks for bringing the "bust circle" to the attention of newer sewists.

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