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Forum > Fitting Woes > First time trying darts... ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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First time trying darts...
Whit308
Whit308
Member since 3/17/14
Posts: 4
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/21/14 3:17 PM

So I mainly sew for my little girl, but came across this fabulous fabric that I am wanting to make into a skirt. I have it hemmed, seamed and zipper in place. The fabric, which I got on clearance and am not even sure what it is(seems like a very light weight polyester) has a very small amount of stretch because I cut it on the bias. My issue is that I am very hour glass shaped. 27" waist, 41" hips, and carry most of my weight in my backside. My first attempt at darts was a complete failure, even after I thought I had researched it enough to try out and resulted in the fabric forming a huge bubble in the front. The back was not as bad, but did have the little cones on the bigger darts.

So now I have let those darts out and before I attempt round 2 I have researched some more. I think my biggest errors were taking in too much fabric with each dart, and ending them to sharply. With that said, I have yet to reach a conclusion on how many darts I should have, and if those should be evenly spread between the front and back! Any help would be much appreciated!!

Whit308
Whit308
Member since 3/17/14
Posts: 4
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/21/14 3:18 PM

Also is there an easier way of doing this without making a million darts? I will say sewig for my little one is much easier than sewing for myself!

plazaglass
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plazaglass
Florida USA
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In reply to Whit308 <<


Date: 3/21/14 9:26 PM

Have you tried adjusting the waistline shape at the side seams? I usually have to reshape the curve from hip to waist at the side seams in order to not have super-wide darts all around.

HelenM01
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HelenM01
Ohio USA
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Date: 3/21/14 10:14 PM

Usually there's four waist darts, two in front, two in back. The darts are usually positioned so that they divide the front (or back) into thirds, in other words, starting at the side seam and traveling across the front, the first dart is about 1/3 the way across.

Because your skirt is cut on the bias I suggest stabilizing the waist with stay stitching or even a narrow strip of interfacing.

The purpose of those waist darts is to shape the skirt over the tummy and butt, and should be kept fairly small. I think for you it might work better to take most of the excess fabric in at the side seams. Easy if the zipper is in back. Not so easy if it's in the side.

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
California USA
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Date: 3/22/14 0:24 AM

Sounds like you will also want to take in the waist at the center back since you say most of your weight is in back. Sorry if that means taking out the zipper too. Darts generally shouldn't be more than 1.25" each, especially short ones.

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/22/14 1:18 AM

How about draping them? I am assuming you cut the skirt wide enough for your hips. With unstitched darts, and no waistband (but don't forget to staystitch the top of the skirt) put the skirt on. First, see where and how much you can pinch at the top of the side seams without distorting the lay of the fabric over the front and rear. Pin the pinches down the side seams to where they meld into the seam as it's already sewn. Then with your hands, smooth the excess fabric at the waist front and back into pleats wherever it feels like you need it most. Pin the pleats at the waist. Now smooth gently down each pleat to where the fabric changed from pleat to smooth and put a pin there to mark it.
Now wind a waistband around your waist and pin it to the skirt, starting at the zipper or buttoned opening and moving around to your body to the other side of the zipper or buttoned opening. Double check all the darts and seam changes to see if they are visually proportionate on your body. Don't worry if they are not all the same - your body is not the same on sides either. As long as it looks good when it's on you, it doesn't matter if the darts are all exactly 3 and 7/16ths of an inch long, or whatever.

------
Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

Big Goal for 2015: to be able to say "Oh, I guess it's time to take this dress in...again!"

UFOs completed in 2015: 0
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sewn in 2015: 2.5 yds
bought in 2015: 12 yds

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 3/22/14 2:55 AM

I have the feeling that the curve on the Side seam can be about 3 cm inwards comparing to the hip. So in a skirt with sideseams that gives 4 x 3= 12 cm . Than I don't want my other darts to be more than 3 cm wide . In my case I want to get rid of more width in the back and I work with 4 darts in the back and 2 in the front

Whit308
Whit308
Member since 3/17/14
Posts: 4
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/22/14 9:59 AM

Thank you all so much for your replies, being new to sewing "adult cloths" has presented all sorts of issues for me, and I truly appreciate your help! The zipper is indeed on the side, but right now I'm thinking of starting from scratch! I have been sewing for about 15 years, first for my dog, now for my baby, and I'm completely self taught. What would be a good book to read as far as sewing on a more professional standard?

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 3/22/14 10:26 AM

Yes you could do that. What do you want lo learn? I think that your issues were in fitting. Why not choose a book or class on fitting to start with

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
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In reply to Whit308 <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 3/22/14 10:37 AM

This book may be a start along with Simplicity' s Simply The Best book.

Once you know what adjustments are needed, apply to each pattern, making a muslin when in doubt.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth. If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basketball Coach

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