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Another bonafide wadder, but it fits
kajero
kajero  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
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Date: 3/21/14 4:58 PM

I liked my the muslin culottes I made. I decided to use the altered pattern to make another pair. Ugh. Somehow or other I missed making some of the new alterations or made them incorrectly on the second pair. And I think I mixed up the front and back waistband.

But the new culottes are some VERY comfortable. They look only okay from the front, but the back is another story. I am too embarrassed to even post pictures of this wadder.

But I did learn a lot! I actually stay stitched everything and did the directional stitching thing. I have never had crotch and inner leg seams match like they did. Also the waistband seams meet each other at zipper perfectly.

I also learned that it is not advisable for me to change a culottes pattern where the top of the yoke hits below the waist. I wanted them to be at my waistline so I decreased the top of the yoke thinking it would raise the waistline. It did, but this type of alteration is NOT a good idea. That's is one of the reasons they look so awful. The style of the garment got very distorted

My SO says the look good, but what does he know. I took pictures of the back with my time shutter camera on the tripod so I could see it and UGH. It's too bad, because these are the most comfortable thing with a crotch that I have ever made!

I am getting so frustrated:
- I made a gazillion muslins for Sandra Betzina's Pants Fitting Techniques Class and never wound up anything I liked. Every muslin I made for that class got thrown away.
-I made a muslin skirt that really fit well, but I thought it looked awful on me and that went on the trash.
-I made a split skirt that I thought I liked but now decided it was horrible and it went in the trash. I even deleted my review of it.
-I made the muslin flower print culottes which I actually like, fit and look like the ones on the pattern envelope.
-And now I made the new culottes that I deem a wadder.

I need to be more successful or I am going to give it up! I am going to make skirts to boost myself confidence. I know I can get them to fit, I just need to be happy with the style.


-- Edited on 3/21/14 5:23 PM --

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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In reply to kajero <<
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Date: 3/21/14 5:30 PM

Culottes? Yikes! Anything in the pant category aside from a pj pant is terrifying to me. Get your A line skirt and a t-shirt to a happy place and then move on.

Someone here at PR said her mother made her make 5 pairs of pyjamas (one for each sibling, I think) before she could do any other sewing. Sounds tedious, but it would be fantastic practice.

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

wendyrb
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In reply to kajero <<
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Date: 3/21/14 5:45 PM

A wadder that fits is a 1000 times better than a wadder that doesn't! Good on you. There's a lengthy PR thread, or 2 or way more on crotch fitting. If you managed fitting that zone then A+.

Go easy on yourself and pick simpler things where you can shine. Pretty soon you'll out and about town wearing your fabulous creations. Keep on truck in'.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

JTink
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Date: 3/21/14 6:06 PM

I'm wondering if you are being too hard on your self. Be brave, post some pictures, maybe we can be of help. You might find that these items are looking better on you than you think

michellep74
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Date: 3/21/14 6:41 PM

Off the top of my head, there are four things that can cause a "wadder" when a garment actually fits well. Do you see any trends among your wadders? Figuring out why something is a wadder will help avoid more wadders in the future.

1. Bad pairing of fabric/pattern. Fabric is either not drapey enough, too drapey, too light, or too heavy for the garment style.

A LOT of new sewists have this issue. Until you get the hang of things, it helps to stick closely to the fabrics recommended on the pattern envelope. Ask for help selecting fabric (with pattern envelope in-hand) if you need it, or ask on the boards here at PR.

2. Fit is okay, but the garment style is not flattering for your figure type.

Just because something looks cute on a model or in a drawing, doesn't mean that it's going to be flattering on us, even if it fits (although fitting well definitely helps!) Learning what styles look good on us, muslins (which I know you make lots of), and a croquis can help us avoid this type of wadder.

3. A style is outside of our comfort zone.

Maybe a garment fits AND looks fine on us...but maybe the style is too trendy and your style is more classic. Or maybe you made a wrap dress because they look great on everyone on PR, but you hate always worrying about the skirt blowing open, etc. Stepping outside of your comfort zone can be a growth experience, but sometimes it also results in wadders.

4. You're too hard on yourself.

Putting something away in a drawer for a week then trying it on again and/or posting reviews with pictures here on PatternReview are a great way to counter the negative initial judgment that we might have about things that we sew for ourselves.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

wendyrb
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In reply to kajero <<
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Date: 3/21/14 7:44 PM

Quote:
I liked my the muslin culottes I made. I decided to use the altered pattern to make another pair. Ugh. Somehow or other I missed making some of the new alterations or made them incorrectly on the second pair. And I think I mixed up the front and back waistband. But the new culottes are some VERY comfortable. They look only okay from the front, but the back is another story. I am too embarrassed to even post pictures of this wadder. But I did learn a lot! I actually stay stitched everything and did the directional stitching thing. I have never had crotch and inner leg seams match like they did. Also the waistband seams meet each other at zipper perfectly. I also learned that it is not advisable for me to change a culottes pattern where the top of the yoke hits below the waist. I wanted them to be at my waistline so I decreased the top of the yoke thinking it would raise the waistline. It did, but this type of alteration is NOT a good idea. That's is one of the reasons they look so awful. The style of the garment got very distorted.
If I read this correctly, you identified some things where you got off track-

* You figured out some workable alterations but transferring them to garment #2 wasn't 100% successful.

* Your fit alterations impacted the styling and not for the better.

You said it yourself, you learned a lot! Looks like for #3 your odds for success are excellent. And you should know that both of your glitches can easily happen. If you're new, the process is not yet familiar. If you're experienced a tweak can cause other ramifications that no one can foresee. I've been a pro pattern maker and a designer working with top-notch pattern makers. Lucky them, they were fitting our nicely proportioned and toned model. Still, ideas that looked good on paper might not pan out till muslin #3. Now and then a style wasn't worth rescuing. Covering the human body so we can move comfortably, look attractive and express our personal style is a tall order. Gigantic. This is why many seasoned sewers love to quilt! They seem to feel that's easier. As a novice quilter, I remain unconvinced! There's plenty enough to learn to share around. IMHO.

Post the ugly rear shots. You won't be the first. There's a lot of expertise here and folks will offer you help.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

kajero
kajero  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/21/14 11:54 PM



I know I said this fits, I said it because they are doggone comfortable! I looked at my trace out again. Apparently, I only lengthened the crotch by 1" rather than the 1-1/2 of crotch length added on the first pair. You can see the first muslin I made here: (You have to click on the picture to see the front, back and sides)First Muslin or on my My Blog.

As I said earlier, I tried to bring the waist line up to my waist by decreasing the waist. Unfortunately that raised the hip line and it you can see how tight it is right under the waistline seam as well as not fitting correctly under the waistline seam.

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

michellep74
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Date: 3/22/14 0:03 AM

One thing that I'm noticing is that your "successful" pair was in a vivid print, whereas your "wadder" pair is in a solid light gray or off-white color.

It's hard to tell in photos, but prints like the one that you used can hide a multitude of fitting imperfections, whereas a light-colored solid hides nothing.

Unless I'm really confident with the fit/style of a new garment, I'll almost always make a garment up in a print or dark color the first time that I sew something (unless I'm making a full-blown muslin first).

What I'm saying is that these two garments might not be as far apart in fit as you think. I suspect that fabric choice is playing at least some part here.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

kajero
kajero  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Minnesota USA
Member since 9/8/12
Posts: 576
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In reply to michellep74 <<


Date: 3/22/14 0:13 AM

I agree with you, but if you look, the waistband hits in the right place on the first pair. It is entirely wrong on the second.

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

goodworks1
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In reply to kajero <<
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Date: 3/22/14 0:38 AM

Quote: kajero
As I said earlier, I tried to bring the waist line up to my waist by decreasing the waist. Unfortunately that raised the hip line and it you can see how tight it is right under the waistline seam as well as not fitting correctly under the waistline seam.


Not sure I completely understand what you're saying here, but I think you would need to INCREASE the yoke/waist area if you want the garment to sit higher on your body and fit the way your other garment did.

I'd add to the top of the waistband/yoke. And leave the rest of it the way you had it before.

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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