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Forum > Fitting Woes > Solutions for gapping back armhole in sleeveless dress ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Solutions for gapping back armhole in sleeveless dress
Are there other solutions to this problem than shoulder darts?
Roxthinks
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Roxthinks
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Quebec Canada
Member since 3/5/13
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Date: 3/23/14 2:56 PM

Hi there!

I have some gaping at the back of the armhole in a muslin of a sleeveless dress I am making. The model I am working on is a slightly modified Sewaholic Cambie dress with narrow shoulder straps (about 3 1/4 inches wide) instead of wide ones. After searching the web and reading Fitting for real people, the solution appears to be adding a shoulder dart. I tried it on my muslin and it works, but the fabric I will be using to make the final dress is printed with vertical stripes... so the print will be wonky if I apply this solution! Are any other solutions out there for this fitting issue? Thanks!

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Kansas USA
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Date: 3/23/14 3:28 PM

Add the darts to the muslin, then rotate them out in the altered pattern?
-- Edited on 3/23/14 3:29 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

Roxthinks
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Roxthinks
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<
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Date: 3/23/14 3:46 PM

Thanks for the tip!

I've been sewing for a while now, but I am just getting into fitting adjustments. Could you explain how this works or hint at a tutorial?

Thanks again!

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Roxthinks <<


Date: 3/23/14 4:31 PM

Fit For Real People has a section on Rotating darts

purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Date: 3/23/14 5:03 PM

How much gaping to you have? 1/2 inch or 2 inches? If it's the former, keep these two things in mind:

1. Don't overfit. You may end up with an armhole that is so snug it chafes against your skin.

2. If the gaping isn't more than a finger width, you can try easing it when you apply a slightly shorter binding (preferable) or facing. You could try this even if you're just turning under the seam allowance. In that case, serge-finish the edges while easy-stitching, i.e., you put your finger or thumb behind the pressure foot and hold down. The pressure causes the fabric to ease/gather slightly. Then turn under, press and stitch into place.

For darts, I am out of my league.

Good luck.

Claudia

Roxthinks
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Roxthinks
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Date: 3/23/14 5:38 PM

I'll check my copy of Fit for real people. I mesured my shoulder dart : it pinches out a full inch of fabric. However, I'll rip the dart out and try to see how much gaping there is.

Thank you all for your input!

-- Edited on 3/23/14 5:57 PM --

Roxthinks
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Roxthinks
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Date: 3/23/14 6:00 PM

Found this: Removing shoulder darts

Will try! Thanks!

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/23/14 7:30 PM

Quote:
If the gaping isn't more than a finger width, you can try easing it when you apply a slightly shorter binding (preferable) or facing.
I confess to doing this all the time to cope with my daughter's broad back and prominent, rounded shoulder blades. Furthermore, I often do the same thing on the front of a garment to close up the gap that can appear when a C-cup wears a sleeveless garment. It's a quick and dirty kind of cheating. For both alterations, I just fold out 1/4-1/2" of length on the armhole edge of the facing pattern, tapering to less on the inside edge of the facing - essentially, I'm folding a dart into the facing with the wide edge of the dart at the armhole edge. I ease the bodice pieces to match.

And then I keep my mouth shut, in case an informer might be tempted to report me to the Couture Police.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



QuiltSewSewSue
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QuiltSewSewSue
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Date: 3/23/14 8:17 PM

I have been fitting a bodice this week-end and found this youtube very helpful - armhole

------
Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

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